[serper3]

Hi,

I just bought a used Borla Atak link below, CF tips, npp, and have a few questions before I install.

https://www.borla.com/products/chevr...system-11925cf

What did you guys use to cut the factory exhaust? Their instructions say to use a "metal-cutting bladed saw". Can I just use a hack saw?

The instructions say cut 7" back. I read some people do 8" to tuck the mufflers back more. I want the more tucked look, kind of like the oem tips. Can you only slip the borla pipes on so far? if i start at 7", and they stick out too far, would i need to cut another inch off?

The mufflers/pipes look pretty dirty. Can you see them from behind the car, or not really. The pics on their site look like you cant really see them. I am trying to figure out how much time to spend on cleaning them

What do you guys use to clean the tips? the CF tips was not my first choice. before i install, I might clean them up, and rattle can the inside black and never worry about it again.

Anything else I should know before i tackle this? I am super excited to get these on the car!

Thanks!

[Trochoidal]

Originally Posted by serper3

What did you guys use to cut the factory exhaust? Their instructions say to use a "metal-cutting bladed saw". Can I just use a hack saw?

When I installed LT’s, X-pipe to factory NPP I used a Sawzall. This made the cut straight and it was efficient. A hacksaw could introduce a crooked cut. I’m not saying you can’t use a hack saw, but it’s not my preferred choice of tools.

If you choose a Sawzall just make sure the tip of the blade isn’t going to hit something you don’t want to cut.

Some people like to use an exhaust and tailpipe cutter. I didn’t have one so I used what was available.

Another tip is measure everything to get an idea where your exhaust tips will be when you’re finished. You could just measure and cut the 7” or 8” that’s mentioned in the instructions. If that wasn’t a good reference something could be off and make the tips sit too far under the car. As we’ve all heard so many times, measure twice and cut once.

Since the factory muffler was used I don’t have input on the rest of your questions.

[serper3]

Originally Posted by Trochoidal

When I installed LT’s, X-pipe to factory NPP I used a Sawzall. This made the cut straight and it was efficient. A hacksaw could introduce a crooked cut. I’m not saying you can’t use a hack saw, but it’s not my preferred choice of tools.

If you choose a Sawzall just make sure the tip of the blade isn’t going to hit something you don’t want to cut.

Some people like to use an exhaust and tailpipe cutter. I didn’t have one so I used what was available.

Another tip is measure everything to get an idea where your exhaust tips will be when you’re finished. You could just measure and cut the 7” or 8” that’s mentioned in the instructions. If that wasn’t a good reference something could be off and make the tips sit too far under the car. As we’ve all heard so many times, measure twice and cut once.

Since the factory muffler was used I don’t have input on the rest of your questions.

Thanks. I might just get a sawzall as I think it would be easier/faster and i would use it in the future.

I just think before i cut, with the stock exhaust in place it will be really hard to figure out were i cut and the final new exhaust placement will be.

[Trochoidal]

Originally Posted by serper3

Thanks. I might just get a sawzall as I think it would be easier/faster and i would use it in the future.

I just think before i cut, with the stock exhaust in place it will be really hard to figure out were i cut and the final new exhaust placement will be.

You’re welcome. I agree, to measure the axle back with a tape measure and place it against the stock exhaust probably won’t give you exactly what you want. So another thought is to cut a template out of cardboard and compare.

I’m overthinking this but IMO I’d really want to validate the instructions and that 7”-8” number.

[Andy2002a]

You can try using this to cut as well https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000M93OUM/

[serper3]

Originally Posted by Andy2002a

You can try using this to cut as well https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000M93OUM/

Thanks! I actually had one of these i used years ago for cutting intercooler piping from a generic kit, but i can't find it!! I think a friend borrowed it or something.

i picked up a sawzall today though, so should be good. I will try to get this done this weekend if i have time.

[SomeGeoffGuy]

Don't tuck the tips too much. If you get too much fascia behind the tip you can melt the fascia.

-Geoff

[crab]

You can rent the tailpipe cutter basically free at auto zone.

[armycop71]

I used a $25 Harbor Freight Exhaust Cutting Tool. It was a chain type cutter and made a nice clean cut that was straight.

[serper3]

Originally Posted by SomeGeoffGuy

Don't tuck the tips too much. If you get too much fascia behind the tip you can melt the fascia.

-Geoff

That is a good point. I will probably just start with the recommended 7" and cut again if needed.

Originally Posted by crab

You can rent the tailpipe cutter basically free at auto zone.

Thanks! I always forget that this is an option. Although I checked 4 stores closest to me, and online they all said they dont have the cutter available.

[ALMN]

$2170 for an axleback exhaust ohh my!Even for an NPP!! I remember the good old days you get axlebacks for less than $400 and full catbacks around a grand! I hope you will be very pleased with the sound and its worth it for you.

[Trochoidal]

Originally Posted by serper3

i picked up a sawzall today though, so should be good. I will try to get this done this weekend if i have time.

Did you get the time to get this installed?

[Ventmaster]

Recommend you use a worm gear hose clamp as a guide for your cut to keep your cut straight. That OE stainless steel exhaust does not cut like "butta" even with best blade and things start shaking and moving pretty fast with a reciprocating saw (right in your face- use eye protection).

[enzia35]

Originally Posted by ALMN

$2170 for an axleback exhaust ohh my!Even for an NPP!! I remember the good old days you get axlebacks for less than $400 and full catbacks around a grand! I hope you will be very pleased with the sound and its worth it for you.

I bought my ATAK for way less than MSRP. Axle back was worth every penny. Mid-pipe, not so much.