09-05-2018, 12:09 PM | #1 |
Drives: ‘18 ZL1 / ‘22 ZLE Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: PA
Posts: 584
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For those of you with a catch can....
Can I get away with putting the supercharger lid back on without a torque wrench? Would I run into any problems if I hand torqued the bolts?
Last edited by SSallday; 09-09-2018 at 03:06 PM. |
09-05-2018, 12:47 PM | #2 |
Drives: Red hot ZL1 A10 2017 Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: MS Back to France (29)
Posts: 804
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Do it hand torque
First bolt I torqued with wrench I broke it I removed the lid and put it back 3 times with hand torque no issues... |
09-05-2018, 07:58 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2017 BLACK ZL1 A10 Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Chicago
Posts: 109
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By Hand - No issues..
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'17 Mosaic ZL1 Katech TB, Plugs/Wires, Rotofab Oiled,+18% Lower, 2" Headers, Cat Delete, 93 Tune, Mobil 1, IPA FF04, 315/30/20 r888r, 664hp/693tq (93), 702hp/727tq (100 oct)
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09-05-2018, 08:30 PM | #4 |
Flyin NOE
Drives: 2018 ZL1 (A10) Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: TX
Posts: 949
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Use a 1/4 inch drive and use german "gutenteight" standard, you'll be fine.
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09-06-2018, 09:39 PM | #5 |
Drives: ‘18 ZL1 / ‘22 ZLE Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: PA
Posts: 584
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ok, great. Thanks for the input!
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09-07-2018, 11:02 AM | #6 |
Drives: 2018 Camaro ZL1 Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Midwest
Posts: 257
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09-08-2018, 09:30 AM | #7 |
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So the lid is the only thing that has to come off to install a catch can?
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"Democracy Dies in Darkness" |
09-08-2018, 10:01 AM | #8 |
Drives: 2018 Camaro ZL1 Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Midwest
Posts: 257
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No it isn't. It seems to be pretty involved. The supercharger base must be lifted about 2 inches apparently. I am on the fence about this since I have been hearing about all the warranty denial stuff.
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09-08-2018, 10:56 AM | #9 |
Drives: Red hot ZL1 A10 2017 Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: MS Back to France (29)
Posts: 804
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Look on YouTube
Elite 2x catch can install on ZL1 You will see everything Just look Dare And do What I did on mine: super easy You have to remove the lid and unscrew le SC to lift it a couple of inches to access, remove and switch the PCV valve... Then reverse the process |
09-08-2018, 11:00 AM | #10 | |
Drives: 2018 Camaro ZL1 Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Midwest
Posts: 257
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Quote:
What did you use to install the aluminum diverter? It looks like a spanner wrench of some sort may be necessary to fit the slots. |
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09-08-2018, 11:12 AM | #11 |
Flyin NOE
Drives: 2018 ZL1 (A10) Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: TX
Posts: 949
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When you pull the OEM diverter you'll find that it isn't in there with much torque at all. I used a chisel to tighten mine down, nothing fancy.
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09-08-2018, 11:26 AM | #12 |
Drives: 2018 Camaro ZL1 Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Midwest
Posts: 257
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Ah gotcha!! Then install the barbed fitting, which I am assuming needs to be modified because in some instances it was hitting the water pump?
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09-08-2018, 05:45 PM | #13 |
Drives: Red hot ZL1 A10 2017 Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: MS Back to France (29)
Posts: 804
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Yes
The gold part needs to be cut 45deg because there is not so much room and it touchs the bottom part of the engine. Like the video on YouTube : Cut it 45deg with a dremel then it works Then dremel is again your friend : I built my own tool to torque (very slightly) the new silver pcv valve. I cut both side of a 19 wrench Then I got my 2 fitting stuff you need I will post a picture tomorrow I’m not home |
09-09-2018, 06:23 AM | #14 |
Drives: Red hot ZL1 A10 2017 Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: MS Back to France (29)
Posts: 804
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here is the tool I built from a 19 wrench
to remove the OEM PCV I used a long std Square then to torque slightly the new PCV, I cut at 45deg the gold part and cut 2 extra marks on the silver front with my Dremel just in case something went wrong with the only 2 OEM (now I have 4 to play with...) that's it, hope it helps... |
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