CAMARO6 - View Single Post

JaxChris · 01-05-2019, 04:31 AM

If you plan to run an external, high feature DSP, then the PAC module wins when you plan to make use of the optical interface.

If you plan to skip the external DSP, then the Axxess has more built-in adjustment. The PAC only has 3-band EQ, versus the Axxess 31-band. This means you'll be able to better set bandpass where needed. The PAC module does automatically sum and adjust to a flat output, where the Axxess does not auto-eq a flat signal to remove the radios built-in rolloffs.

The biggest argument for running an external DSP with either of these units is that it doesn't provide enough pre-amps to run an active front stage. This means you'lll be limited to components with passive crossovers sharing the same RCA. I really wish Maestro AR made a MOST module. Then Rockford could sell a version like they do with the DSR1 for CANBUS cars. Rockford takes the 99$ Maestro AR and adds their 3.SIXTY DSP to make it a 250$ integration module with 8 RCA outputs -- but I wish they really provided 10 or more. The Maestro AR reserves the last 2 as sub, leaving 6 full range channels. If you dropped the center channel, and used 6.5" subwoofers for 2 of the 4 rear speakers, you could drive a fully active system from the module to one 8-channel amp (or two 4-channel amps if it mounts better in your tire well). With 10 channel output and proper selection, you could have 1 center, 8 side channels and 1 sub channel. The Rockford DSP is pretty well rated as well as a digital software driven solution.

But I digress. Since neither module has a plentiful set of outputs, and I wanted to spend extra to have ultimate control over my system, I would get the PAC module and a MiniDSP 8x12. It has 6 RCA inputs (perfect match), 1 SPDIF input (not needed with this solution) and 1 optical TOS.link input (excellent). With that I would use the PAC module for control chime, phonecalls and ANC blocking. I would use the MiniDSP for center channel creation, run full active for all 9 speakers, and set time alignment for proper staging to both the front seats (thank you center channel).

If you have played with the Bose system, it does an ok job and can hit lower frequencies than most factory systems can. The rub is that in the name of weight savings, GM used ANC for noise control and installed zero isolation or deadening material in the car. The Bose system with the right sub bass tracks playing (<70hz) causes the door panels to get very noisy. Instead of wasting the limited trunk space with subs I would do midbass woofers in the doors and subwoofers in the side rear pockets with fast rings to limit space behind those drivers. Then I would run a resonance test with some deep bass and mid bass tracks to identify where patches of matting are needed other than immediately around the speaker mounts. I'd also look at padding the clip locations on the rear panels, doors panels, and mat most of the rear deck -- along with some better felt tape along the seems where the rear deck cover likes to rub and rattle most.

Give the subs 100 watts, woofers 75 watts, drivers 50 watts and tweeters 35 watts (I don't like a lot of tweeter at my age) in a combination of mini class-D amps sharing a d-block for power and ground with the DSP and integration module on a single board that can tie down in the tire well.

When you're full active, you don't use any filters on your amps, because you are doing highpass, lowpass and bandpass from the DSP. This means the amp works less only amplifying the signal you want on each channel and you don't need higher end amps with any extra features. This allows for very compact, low draw amps to just spit out watts.

Good luck.

01-05-2019, 04:31 AM	#39
JaxChris Drives: '16 2SS GD1 MX0 NPP F55 IO6 Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Florida Posts: 1,298	If you plan to run an external, high feature DSP, then the PAC module wins when you plan to make use of the optical interface. If you plan to skip the external DSP, then the Axxess has more built-in adjustment. The PAC only has 3-band EQ, versus the Axxess 31-band. This means you'll be able to better set bandpass where needed. The PAC module does automatically sum and adjust to a flat output, where the Axxess does not auto-eq a flat signal to remove the radios built-in rolloffs. The biggest argument for running an external DSP with either of these units is that it doesn't provide enough pre-amps to run an active front stage. This means you'lll be limited to components with passive crossovers sharing the same RCA. I really wish Maestro AR made a MOST module. Then Rockford could sell a version like they do with the DSR1 for CANBUS cars. Rockford takes the 99$ Maestro AR and adds their 3.SIXTY DSP to make it a 250$ integration module with 8 RCA outputs -- but I wish they really provided 10 or more. The Maestro AR reserves the last 2 as sub, leaving 6 full range channels. If you dropped the center channel, and used 6.5" subwoofers for 2 of the 4 rear speakers, you could drive a fully active system from the module to one 8-channel amp (or two 4-channel amps if it mounts better in your tire well). With 10 channel output and proper selection, you could have 1 center, 8 side channels and 1 sub channel. The Rockford DSP is pretty well rated as well as a digital software driven solution. But I digress. Since neither module has a plentiful set of outputs, and I wanted to spend extra to have ultimate control over my system, I would get the PAC module and a MiniDSP 8x12. It has 6 RCA inputs (perfect match), 1 SPDIF input (not needed with this solution) and 1 optical TOS.link input (excellent). With that I would use the PAC module for control chime, phonecalls and ANC blocking. I would use the MiniDSP for center channel creation, run full active for all 9 speakers, and set time alignment for proper staging to both the front seats (thank you center channel). If you have played with the Bose system, it does an ok job and can hit lower frequencies than most factory systems can. The rub is that in the name of weight savings, GM used ANC for noise control and installed zero isolation or deadening material in the car. The Bose system with the right sub bass tracks playing (<70hz) causes the door panels to get very noisy. Instead of wasting the limited trunk space with subs I would do midbass woofers in the doors and subwoofers in the side rear pockets with fast rings to limit space behind those drivers. Then I would run a resonance test with some deep bass and mid bass tracks to identify where patches of matting are needed other than immediately around the speaker mounts. I'd also look at padding the clip locations on the rear panels, doors panels, and mat most of the rear deck -- along with some better felt tape along the seems where the rear deck cover likes to rub and rattle most. Give the subs 100 watts, woofers 75 watts, drivers 50 watts and tweeters 35 watts (I don't like a lot of tweeter at my age) in a combination of mini class-D amps sharing a d-block for power and ground with the DSP and integration module on a single board that can tie down in the tire well. When you're full active, you don't use any filters on your amps, because you are doing highpass, lowpass and bandpass from the DSP. This means the amp works less only amplifying the signal you want on each channel and you don't need higher end amps with any extra features. This allows for very compact, low draw amps to just spit out watts. Good luck.