[BlueCamaro6]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

Do not get the 2 solutions confused.

Your alternator is controlled by the computer and you can force it to charge all the time but will cook the battery in the process.

System voltage is varied based on the state of charge in the battery we see 11.8 to 15 volts.

Since system voltage varies widely we recommend a FPVB for every build.

A fuel pump voltage booster regardless of system voltage will put out a constant 14.5 volts then when you pass 50% throttle it jumps to 17.5 volts.

Ted.

Ted, good point on the battery, but I don't think maintaining 12-14v is going to cook it. It was interesting when I did change the voltage, the car became instantly better with the A8 shifting. It was not smooth if you were easy on the gas. Something I complained about on my 2016 I had before my 18. It is smooth now and when you step on it, the shifts are nice and firm. It's all I did before putting the s/c on, so I know it fixed that issue and 12.5v is when it became smooth. GM should have the computer system maintain 12.5v, let the battery be 11.8-15, and fuel pump capable of a constant 14-17.5v.

On the computer control, I had an understanding that there are different output terminals from the alternator. So I command the battery to stay at 12.6v-14.4v and the fuel pump gets 15.5v max when needed. Looking at past logs, the voltage only goes past 14.4v when I'm 55%+ throttle and 3k rpm. I found it to be directly linked with PE Enable. Thinking the actual voltage delivered also takes into account for the needed fuel supply. Mine sits at 15.2v when PE is active even though it is 15.5v in the chart. My assumption is that the control unit knows I'm not maxing the LT4 fuel injectors or LT4 supply feed and there is no need for more voltage (15.5v). Do you have a different understanding of the computer control system?

I agree the fuel pump booster is much different and if someone needs 17.5v constant power for the set up, go with the stand alone power booster, and don't even read anything about this conversation. For guys that just need a little more out of their system to be on the safe side, pressure drop only after a long pull, tune the oem computer to your liking is my thoughts. I've put over 4k miles on my 2018 since mid July when I did the s/c and I've been very happy with it. I leave my house in the am, returning in the afternoon, and turned it off only a hand full of times today which is more than usual. Literally, the car runs for 5-7hrs day with a 5-10 min turn off here and there.