[wookwook]

Yah its been a while seems more conversation on FB now, but its pretty much all the same recycled questions. Hopefully the forums will come back.

Been still working hard on the rig. some notes for better or worst.

CAI - OK so I came back through on my efforts on tuning its more or less a go around and checking air fuel (water hah!).
Its a little science here, but I see my Air flow and the associated MAF Hz that represents Air = So I have noticed that with the bigger turbo wheel that my logs are topping the 10K Hz max range in the MAF read (tune) table. Tuner table shows 10K at the top end and I have been just about running over that by a few hundred Hz, aka off the measurable chart. Having found a couple of articles, eh, it seems to extrapolate fine in my logs, but I am thinking now finally getting a bigger breather tube. it will let more air mass flow and jiggle the MAF wire less in proportion to letting more air pass and be measured, so it will come back into scale of the tables with a new calibration. Its slight and I am resisting the $300 layout, but for what its worth, Its a worthy upgrade in this situation. Have been running a KR drop in.

Throttle Body, I am not sure yet. so we can log pressure in the manifold which is after the TB. in my situation logging seen peak at 30 psi with a e-mechanical gauge on the cold side pipe. (Snow Gauge with a silicon tube). Reading other (gen5 v8 and big boy FI) posters, if your running boost, things like TB and headers aren't the best bang for you buck with FI to start. I may revisit this one.

E85 - if you have access at the pump its worth while. Not nitro methane but it does add power, but not worth 12 bucks a gallon to run 5 runs at the strip since I have to buy it in 5 gallon bulk cans.

Downpipe- if your conscious is OK with green house gasses, you need to rethink what a 350 HP engine is going to give you on a DD for thumbing your nose at Greenland.. Go catted and sleep at night. No, legally its like why? its just not that much air extra flow. Get a free breathing exhaust and you'll be fine.

Catch can- never really figured that out. You will want the lube to hit your diverter hopefully a Jacfab valve. BOL works instantaneously to recirculate boost air, and holds boost long and hard. the rest of the fog is condensation which water is not bad to burn. OK so SIDI maintenance is up in the air. I don't think there is a worry free solution other that periodic walnut blasting.

Exhaust - what ever you pick it will be LOUD, the rear skin is thin. You will want a resonator in the mid pipe or it will just be raspy and LOUD.

Tune- you will need to open the ECU and get a basic Torque bump in there and a MAF calibration. The over the counter email tuners (ZZP is trustworthy) will have a basic starter Torque request table that will align the demand tables to use the Turbo reserve boost. Its very safe. Its hard to eff up a decent canned tune. People manage to do it. Air quality affects this turbo engine a lot. 60s F air is good and you will see the denser air fun. People - Hot summer air affects this engine, its a fact. That said there 'are' advanced tuner table strategies to consider, but with a stock turbo and a canned tune, your in 325 HP land. But that's still pretty good.

IC pipes are a good and easy mod. If you ever want to add a bung for MW (highly recommend) its the only way, and the black Mishi Black friday sale watch for.

I haven't seen any reason to mess with spark- but since spraying water, that side of things hasn't been an issue. Running full gap on OEM plugs, its the ping preignition that is the problem that everyone is chasing. ping no longer an issue whatsoever.

Snow Boost Cooler. I've been running it since the spring. Total faith. Spraying water into a bung on the low end of the cool side IC pipe. It really is plug and play and can you bump timing about 2-4 degrees given this hot summer was a good test hitting 6 degrees easily at WOT. It works. and refills are cheap. Yeah its windshield fluid, It simply works. Cooler IAT and some alky to burn. Its completely stable and efficient. Check out MB and BMW M4 GT. WM is the new cool kid on the block. And it may be going more mainstream.

Turbo Blanket. I don't quite get it so much. I just personally think shedding heat is OK. This thing burns at 1850F EGT, very extreme cat temps already.

FMIC - with MW available its not really a requirement for cost and work. We have sitting heat soak. yeah the IC is sandwiched in the radiator and AC and that sucks. Yet air to air 'seems' like its doing what it should if you provide air flow and no real latency issues as with Air to Water.

Get a throttle controller, it will make the TP respond quicker and give more of a carburator engine feel.


Hopefully that helps with your Mods.