Quote:
Originally Posted by Trochoidal
No there wasn’t much shimming required and getting the contact patch correct generally only takes me 2 adjustments. Full disclosure, I’m a 40+ machinist by trade. Doing automotive work like setting up a rear is right in my wheelhouse. If this is your first time, some reading and watching videos will get you up to speed quickly. I’ve set up a lot of rears but all of them have been 9” Fords.
I’d speculate your accident contributed to the failure. I say this because that broken part looks like it was a fractured break and not something you’d see from rotating parts. What I mean is the steel used probably wasn’t some good alloy like a 4140 or 4340. But without actually having handled that part it’s hard to say. Anyway, back to the broken part. If that was hardened to say 35 to 40 HRC I could see it not taking any lateral shock without failure.
As for knocking out the pin and taking it apart, I’d do it just because like you I’d want to see what could be rebuilt.
Laser welded? Maybe it was fuse welded with a tig. Snap a picture and upload it if you get the time.
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As for the part you are talking about, is it the washer/backing plate looking thing that broke in half? I guess this is a backing plate to the clutches on each side gear in the carrier, but maybe its something else. Either way like you say may be treated to obtain mechanical characteristics similar to what they do with the fancy "race" transmission clutch backing plates and kolene steels. Although I think those use different, more chemical like, processes like nitriding.
I am just not sure a shock load would effectively transfer all the way up to them and the load path is in between them. I really would hope it did cause it and this superior European differential isn't that big of a POS haha.