Thread: Tilton clutch
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Old 01-24-2021, 08:23 PM   #20
SIM GhostrdrZ

 
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Drives: ‘14 ZL1 M6 vert
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,292
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdb95z28 View Post
I have seen the RideTech kit but do not know of anyone who has them. I think the price is going to push alot of people away. I have no doubt the RideTech stuff is high quality, and as you mentioned, lightweight! To compare with other high quality components, like buying the Detroit Speed (DSE) toe rods (which I have), a quality set of trailing arms like the UMI trailing arms with the Rotor-Joint (which I have) and replacing the OE lower control arm (LCA) with the DSE ones will only cost about $1175.

Realistically, the OE Z/28 toe rods, which are the same on the 1LE's, are excellent. They have a durable rose joint with excellent articulation and no bind. IMO, adding more poly anywhere at the rear where there already is alot of articulation, is a step back. I moved onto the DSE toe rods because I thought they would be easier to adjust the toe than the OE eccentric. And, they do have a similar type of rose joint, so really, they are just a little bit better when we consider we can remove the eccentric and help keep the toe where we want.

On the trailing arms, I moved to the Roto-Joint UMI's, so there is more articulation and less bind than with the OE arm, which is the same between the Z/28 and the 1LE. Now, whether more articulation/less bind is needed there is debatable. Realistically, I had a few bucks to burn on my car and I chose the trailing arms to do so. The Roto-Joint has not made any noise on my car.

I still have the OE LCA, which is also the same on the Z and the 1LE. I've contemplated getting the DSE LCA, but at $575, I'm not sure it's worth it. And I suspect they are a lot heavier than the OE ones. The weak link on the OE LCA is probably the one bushing. Sticky Motorsports used to have a Delrin replacement, which would allow bind free movement. I've moved the LCA by itself while bolted to the cradle, but not the knuckle, and no spring/damper attached, and it does have some resistance (as it is engineered to have), it was not much, so I think it's not a big deal. It is just part of the engineered in roll resistance. The rear suspension on our Gen5's do a better job than the Gen6's at holding alignment specs, and it can, with the right alignment, help the rear tires wear evenly with road course use. I've never had my toe or camber move at the rear, and I run the curbs hard at my track.

I edited the weights on the clutches on the previous post. That previous info was what I found on the interwebs, but I got to weigh my actual components today.
You nailed where my thoughts were. I appreciate your knowledge and sharing it.
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