CAMARO6 - View Single Post - Maintenance Videos: Pad Change, Diff Fluid Swap, Trans Fluid Swap, Brake Fluid Flush

cdrptrks · 05-18-2022, 02:56 PM

Thanks for posting these! They would have made it easier for my first time doing these tasks if they existed a few years ago and I'm sure they will help others.

Notes/Feedback:
The service manual doesn't mention using any grease/lubricant on the front pads like you do in your video but it probably won't hurt anything and it does say to use it on the rear pads in the same spot you showed. The Permatex ceramic extreme 24129 that you used is the only product that I found with a high enough temperature rating for track use...the green Permatex stuff I tried before got too hot and disappeared after a track day. You should also add a reminder to the video to pump the brake pedal a few times until it gets firm at the end of the video so someone doesn't forget and hit something if the pedal goes to the floor on their test drive the first time they try to stop!

Also in my experience, removing the brake fluid cap makes it easier to press the pistons back in (not mentioned in the service manual) but make sure to leave yourself a note to put it back on and twist it afterwards so you don't forget. And watch out because it may pop off and fall into the engine bay when you push on the pistons if you leave it sitting loose on top of the reservoir!

The service manual says you need to drain 8oz of the OEM transmission fluid after you fill it, or measure the level at 1/8" below the fill plug with bent mechanic's wire. You should update your video since you are currently instructing people to overfill the transmission fluid. This was edited into the DIY photo thread: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=492814
This may not apply to other non-ATF fluids if they don't expand as temperature increases: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...6#post10870206

The service manual calls for using sealant on the manual transmission fill plug (Genuine GM Parts 12346004 - Liquid Teflon Sealant 50cc Tube). This Permatex Hi Temp Thread Sealant 59214 seems to be equivalent. I have done it without sealant in the past and found no leaks after a few track days...maybe the extra leftover sealant on the threads did the job. Torque is 20 lb ft for the transmission fill plug.

Like you mentioned in a comment on YouTube, the service manual calls for using the transmission fluid temperature sensor (right below the fill plug) as the drain plug instead of the actual drain plug. It is less messy that way. Torque is 20 lb ft for the transmission fluid temperature sensor (need a deep socket [15mm I think] or crow's foot wrench) and the service manual says to use the same sealant I mentioned above before reinstalling it. I used loctite blue 242 last time and it was not leaking when I checked after a few track days. Mine had a loose purple plastic piece with slots for the electrical pins that fell out from inside of the connector when I unplugged it last time so watch out not to lose that and tuck the connector away facing up so it can't fall out while you drain the fluid. I think it is supposed to stay in place when you unplug it though. If I remember correctly, you can also use a 1.5" long 3/8 extension to loosen the fill plug without unclipping and moving the cooler pipe hard line, but the service manual says to unclip and move it.

05-18-2022, 02:56 PM	#6
cdrptrks Drives: 2017 Blue Camaro 1SS 1LE with PDR Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 962	Thanks for posting these! They would have made it easier for my first time doing these tasks if they existed a few years ago and I'm sure they will help others. Notes/Feedback: The service manual doesn't mention using any grease/lubricant on the front pads like you do in your video but it probably won't hurt anything and it does say to use it on the rear pads in the same spot you showed. The Permatex ceramic extreme 24129 that you used is the only product that I found with a high enough temperature rating for track use...the green Permatex stuff I tried before got too hot and disappeared after a track day. You should also add a reminder to the video to pump the brake pedal a few times until it gets firm at the end of the video so someone doesn't forget and hit something if the pedal goes to the floor on their test drive the first time they try to stop! Also in my experience, removing the brake fluid cap makes it easier to press the pistons back in (not mentioned in the service manual) but make sure to leave yourself a note to put it back on and twist it afterwards so you don't forget. And watch out because it may pop off and fall into the engine bay when you push on the pistons if you leave it sitting loose on top of the reservoir! The service manual says you need to drain 8oz of the OEM transmission fluid after you fill it, or measure the level at 1/8" below the fill plug with bent mechanic's wire. You should update your video since you are currently instructing people to overfill the transmission fluid. This was edited into the DIY photo thread: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=492814 This may not apply to other non-ATF fluids if they don't expand as temperature increases: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...6#post10870206 The service manual calls for using sealant on the manual transmission fill plug (Genuine GM Parts 12346004 - Liquid Teflon Sealant 50cc Tube). This Permatex Hi Temp Thread Sealant 59214 seems to be equivalent. I have done it without sealant in the past and found no leaks after a few track days...maybe the extra leftover sealant on the threads did the job. Torque is 20 lb ft for the transmission fill plug. Like you mentioned in a comment on YouTube, the service manual calls for using the transmission fluid temperature sensor (right below the fill plug) as the drain plug instead of the actual drain plug. It is less messy that way. Torque is 20 lb ft for the transmission fluid temperature sensor (need a deep socket [15mm I think] or crow's foot wrench) and the service manual says to use the same sealant I mentioned above before reinstalling it. I used loctite blue 242 last time and it was not leaking when I checked after a few track days. Mine had a loose purple plastic piece with slots for the electrical pins that fell out from inside of the connector when I unplugged it last time so watch out not to lose that and tuck the connector away facing up so it can't fall out while you drain the fluid. I think it is supposed to stay in place when you unplug it though. If I remember correctly, you can also use a 1.5" long 3/8 extension to loosen the fill plug without unclipping and moving the cooler pipe hard line, but the service manual says to unclip and move it. Last edited by cdrptrks; 11-09-2022 at 01:21 PM.