Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS
When layering products you always want the most durable one on the bottom, for example, your putting a coating, sealant, and a topper on. You would want the coating 1st, sealant second, topper last.
Another example is using sealant and wax, put the sealant on first, and the wax on second, as the sealant is more durable. That being said there are many mislabeled products on the market today, example....Megs Ultimate Wax. It is a polymer based product. Wax is made from natural ingredients, not man made, so this product is actually a sealant.
Some waxes also are under the "cleaner wax" category, these waxes contain either a solvent, or a very mild abrasive, and occasionally a combination of the two. These should not be used on top of a sealant because they will strip most of it off when applying.
Layering is a good idea, to maximize the durability of the initial protection applied to the paint.
You may be experiencing diminished results on the Mazda due to improper bonding from residues left from claying. After claying use either IPA (15-20%) and distilled water, or a paint prep product that removes oils/residue. There are many to choose from.
Wear nitrile gloves to avoid oils from your hands getting on the surface, which will also reduce the bond of the sealant. Keep the gloves on when wiping down any excess after sealant application, again to avoid oils from your hands getting on towels used for this purpose.
My best guess as to why your Honda is getting a better bond is due to the generally soft paint that is found on Honda's. Because the paint is soft, the sealant gets to the pores easier, which forms a better bond. Mazda paint tends to be harder, but can vary from car to car.
Washing the car after claying is not needed, instead do the IPA, or a paint prep product like Carpro Eraser to remove residue.
The Honda probably also still beads possibly due to not being strip washed prior to claying. Whenever your going to apply a fresh base coat of sealant, be sure to first strip wash the car.
Many car shampoos today contain gloss enhancers, and you don't want to use this type of shampoo for a strip wash. Instead, use one without any, and mix in 4-5 ounces of APC in your wash bucket. Only wash in the shade and do not allow it to dry on the surface. Rinse well.
After using the Nanoskin, the IPA/Paint Prep wipe down will remove any oils/residue left over, and you will have the best possible surface for your sealant to bond to.
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Please don't take this the wrong way or be offended by you offering advice, but you assumed a lot, and answered a lot of questions I didn't ask. The post was to simply state an observation of layering different chemistry's since there is never really any discussions on it. Most detail hobbyists just constantly layer stuff or try new things, without discussing what may actually be going on with multiple brand combinations. For instance, I think Chemical guys wash and wax is excellent at maintaining some of Meguiar's polymer sealants. It's a very cheap and effective combo that can bring nearly a half to a year of beading protection for what amounts to a few dollars and a single application. I have always been amazed at the obsession of botique and expensive products that just don't really work all that well, and the ones that dare to compare them to the cheap stuff usually find they are vastly over priced or overrated. Look at Jimbo at Auto Detailing Podcasts tests of the Turtle Wax Spray Wax, I don't really use Turtle Wax stuff but the way its value laid waste to so many well regarded products is just hilarious.
I know ULW is a sealant, Meg's readily addmited from the start what it was, they labeled it that way on purpose for the general public to recognize it as a paint protection product. I fully know what a cleaner wax is, and simply don't use them, I have no reason too unless I get a particularly nasty bird crap etching on a hot day. I did strip(3 or 4 ounces of citrus daily, with 6 ounces of Meguiar's Super Soap thrown in, that stuff is very sudsy) wash the Honda, not that it even means anything, tests have shown how strong these things are. Apex Detail, Auto Detailing Podcast, Pan are using pretty harsh stuff and IPA isn't even erasing Meguiar's newer stuff on the first pass, which Meg's recommend putting fast finish on top of ULW lock in ULW's shine. They say they even developed it for that, the more durable product on too of the weaker one.
I didn't care if 100% of the sealant was gone, because I was putting on the same thing anyway. The only way to truly, surely strip sealants anymore is basically paint and body prep wash. Just because something doesn't bead or sheet just means that part of the sealant is gone.
I haven't found my Honda's paint to be soft at all, unless I am just taking extraordinary care of it. And I know about gloss enhancers in soap. That's why I keep several kinds on hand. Extreme body wash and wax for most washes, citrus daily for days I am adding to the protection, and have tried the Turtle Wax M.A.X. to "strip". It actually seems to work fairly well but you have to use a ridiculous amount to actually "strip": 9oz per gallon.