CAMARO6 - View Single Post - Need help with jack points on a convertible.

DIYguy · 04-03-2019, 08:14 PM

OK, here are a couple of photos (please pardon the dirt streaks and splatters, it was raining earlier today).
Also there a few CAD renderings that show the details better.

The front pads are about 115mm (4.5") in length and the rear pads are 80mm (3.13") in length.
I made the front ones longer to spread the load a bit more because of the engine and transmission weight.

The slots to clear the pinch weld flanges should be around 6mm (0.25") in width and may extend into the central holes as shown in the renderings, but for the actual parts I chose to mill them just short of that.
Notice that the slots are biased toward the opposite side of the T slot from the screws so that the screws will press the weld flange against a larger flat surface.
The screws I used were M5x25mm stainless steel hex head screws but you can also use 10-32x1" if you prefer.
Although it is not shown in the renderings, the screw holes are drilled through to the center slot on the one side only.

The end chamfers on the front pads are needed, but they are optional on the back (and should be smaller of course).
They are 45 degrees and aren't critical otherwise.
You need the chamfers on the front pads to be able to nest reliably in the lift pad area of most floor jacks.

I painted them flat black before mounting them and unless you are specifically looking for them you do not see them normally.

When I installed them I put generous beads of silicone RTV on the tops of the pads and in the areas that would contact the weld flanges.
Then I used a floor jack to press the pads up against the frame rails lightly while tightening the clamp screws.
After the RTV set overnight I re-tightened the clamp screws.

So far they have not loosened or deformed and are really convenient to have on the car.
I often use two floor jacks when lifting the car so that the loads are more evenly distributed.
Having these permanently in place makes this extremely easy to do.

These could have been made from solid bar (like the Dewhels) but I had the 4545 stock laying around and these hardly weigh anything because of all the hollow spaces in them.
Because I had the stock on hand my total cost was around $4 for the screws.
Try to use stainless steel screws if at all possible to prevent any corrosion issues.

04-03-2019, 08:14 PM	#23
DIYguy Drives: 2017 Camaro 1LT Join Date: Mar 2019 Location: California Posts: 241 View My Garage	OK, here are a couple of photos (please pardon the dirt streaks and splatters, it was raining earlier today). Also there a few CAD renderings that show the details better. The front pads are about 115mm (4.5") in length and the rear pads are 80mm (3.13") in length. I made the front ones longer to spread the load a bit more because of the engine and transmission weight. The slots to clear the pinch weld flanges should be around 6mm (0.25") in width and may extend into the central holes as shown in the renderings, but for the actual parts I chose to mill them just short of that. Notice that the slots are biased toward the opposite side of the T slot from the screws so that the screws will press the weld flange against a larger flat surface. The screws I used were M5x25mm stainless steel hex head screws but you can also use 10-32x1" if you prefer. Although it is not shown in the renderings, the screw holes are drilled through to the center slot on the one side only. The end chamfers on the front pads are needed, but they are optional on the back (and should be smaller of course). They are 45 degrees and aren't critical otherwise. You need the chamfers on the front pads to be able to nest reliably in the lift pad area of most floor jacks. I painted them flat black before mounting them and unless you are specifically looking for them you do not see them normally. When I installed them I put generous beads of silicone RTV on the tops of the pads and in the areas that would contact the weld flanges. Then I used a floor jack to press the pads up against the frame rails lightly while tightening the clamp screws. After the RTV set overnight I re-tightened the clamp screws. So far they have not loosened or deformed and are really convenient to have on the car. I often use two floor jacks when lifting the car so that the loads are more evenly distributed. Having these permanently in place makes this extremely easy to do. These could have been made from solid bar (like the Dewhels) but I had the 4545 stock laying around and these hardly weigh anything because of all the hollow spaces in them. Because I had the stock on hand my total cost was around $4 for the screws. Try to use stainless steel screws if at all possible to prevent any corrosion issues. Attached Images __________________ Gen6 Camaro LT (my daily driver), Cruze ECO (grocery getter), Chevy SS Pickup (wife's daily driver), Honda Shadow, Honda CBX Last edited by DIYguy; 04-05-2019 at 07:51 AM.