CAMARO6 - View Single Post - How does everyone get the rubber driveshaft to differential flange off?

cmitchell17 · 01-13-2021, 05:56 PM

Ok so I got everything on. I had to take the differential back up but I had it already bolted to the axle shafts so I just let it fall down without supporting it. It will fall down low enough out of the subframe brackets to where you can push it towards the back and connect the driveshaft.

After dealing with all that and my hands being on fire from carpal tunnel or whatever, i didn't even care at that point to torque anything to spec. I also ordered the new longer axle bolts but I discovered mine already had the longer ones. I just put the existing ones back in and put it on the highest level on my milwaukee hex impact driver and tightened them down. I did check some with a torque wrench and they were probably at least around 50ftlbs. They also seemed they still had some locking potential but I know you're supposed to use new ones, at this point I don't care.

I haven't really got on it hard, i did hear one little pop from the rear once. It seems like it does shift a little late/high after having hp adjust the tune with the wizard.

My biggest problem is there is now a vibration, which i kind of expected. I have no way of knowing the balanced position of the new diff, i didn't see anything marked.

I am kind of scared to keep driving around with it but balanced, it's not a bad vibration but you can definitely feel it in your seat. I would think any driveshaft shop would be able to rebalance everything for me? I'm not sure if they would still holes in the differential flange like the factory does? Or weld weighs to the driveshaft? I guess I would rather them drill holes in the flange. I know I'm not going to crawl up under there again and test every which way of bolting up the axles and driveshaft to the diff to test and see which one is balanced haha.

01-13-2021, 05:56 PM	#8
cmitchell17 Drives: 17 2SS, 8L90, Cam, Heads, E85 Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: US Posts: 1,201	Ok so I got everything on. I had to take the differential back up but I had it already bolted to the axle shafts so I just let it fall down without supporting it. It will fall down low enough out of the subframe brackets to where you can push it towards the back and connect the driveshaft. After dealing with all that and my hands being on fire from carpal tunnel or whatever, i didn't even care at that point to torque anything to spec. I also ordered the new longer axle bolts but I discovered mine already had the longer ones. I just put the existing ones back in and put it on the highest level on my milwaukee hex impact driver and tightened them down. I did check some with a torque wrench and they were probably at least around 50ftlbs. They also seemed they still had some locking potential but I know you're supposed to use new ones, at this point I don't care. I haven't really got on it hard, i did hear one little pop from the rear once. It seems like it does shift a little late/high after having hp adjust the tune with the wizard. My biggest problem is there is now a vibration, which i kind of expected. I have no way of knowing the balanced position of the new diff, i didn't see anything marked. I am kind of scared to keep driving around with it but balanced, it's not a bad vibration but you can definitely feel it in your seat. I would think any driveshaft shop would be able to rebalance everything for me? I'm not sure if they would still holes in the differential flange like the factory does? Or weld weighs to the driveshaft? I guess I would rather them drill holes in the flange. I know I'm not going to crawl up under there again and test every which way of bolting up the axles and driveshaft to the diff to test and see which one is balanced haha.