Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim M
Just pulled mine today...quite an unpleasant experience. Likely a better workspace/lift and correct tools make it much more enjoyable...or I'm a challenged solo mechanic.
Couple of comments - definitely need the cradle as low as you are willing to go. I loosened the steering shaft too as the OEM exhaust manifold will hit and bind as you lower the cradle.
Also there is a bolt at the top of the bellhousing - a bit of a pain, but luckily the bellhousing bolts are not very tight - surprisingly.
The driveshaft requires a T60 torx bit as well. The rest was unbolting and getting a work out muscling the 150 pound trans around on my back...even with a tranny jack. And it took about 6-7 hours of fiddling. Going back in will be even more of a chore.
|
If you did it by yourself on jack stands in 6-7 hours I commend you, good effort man. Like I said it took 2 of us 3 hours on a lift, and we had the tools we needed and had a pretty good idea what we were getting in to. Hopefully it does go in easier like Jcunningham said. I just got my new GM throwout bearing with the tick performance billet release bearing support. Wont have my trans back till end of December and will be doing a Mcleod RXT clutch and steel flywheel.
So how come you are pulling your trans?
__________________
2017 1SS M6 Hyper Blue Metallic NPP, MMR 228 Z/28 replica wheels, Front: 20 x 9, Rear 20 x 11
Stock: 416hp/427tq, 12.21 @ 116.80
Modified 02/2019: Whipple SC w/ 3.500 pulley, LT4 fueling, NW 103 TB, Roto-Fab Big Gulp, Kooks 2" jet coated, full Borla ATAK exhaust, DSS axles, Gforce driveshaft.
Tuned by EFX Tuning 688hp/632tq
Best 1/4 to date: 10.705 @ 131.92
|