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Old 02-16-2024, 12:17 PM   #18
2SS Capt
2020 Shadow Gray 2SS
 
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Drives: 2020 2SS - A10, NPP, MRC, CAI
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: SoCal
Posts: 3,066
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdb95z28 View Post
Yes, you can either add the brake fluid to the Motive or not. IMHO, cleaning the Motive of all brake fluid is the larger chore. While this may be an extreme thought, I treat fresh brake fluid as something that should be pure. Since I track my car I put a lot of effort in maintaining the brake fluid integrity. Chemicals used to clean the Motive may not be compatible with brake fluid or the Motive. Motive recommends denatured alcohol.

That being said, either way is acceptable, use your best judgement in choosing either putting the fluid in the Motive or not.

In the latter case, you would have to diligently keep an eye on your master cylinder (MC) so you do not run it dry. To begin, fill the MC with fresh fluid. Bleed the RR but take note of how much you are bleeding out. Do a little bit but then check your MC level. Release the Motive pressure and add more to the MC. Yes, this process takes more time and requires you to be very mindful of the MC level. I do mine this way. Be patient, never rush. Otherwise, no matter the job, you will make mistakes. Having that second set of eyes is good to keep the level topped of.


Proper sequence on the Gen6 is not the typical "furthest to closest to the MC".
RR, LF, LR, RF is the correct service manual procedure. You may have to do the procedure multiple times to gain a rock hard pedal.

3 liters of SRF is a good amount, even if you do a complete system flush. But you'll find you can breeze thru that amount quickly if you are chasing air and a soft pedal. Versus my previously owned Gen5 SS 1LE, I found the Gen6 a little more temperamental with respect to eliminating air. My car actually had air in the RF caliper from the factory!

When opening up the brake system there's always a chance that air will make its way back further than intended. I mentioned the ABS solenoid bleed procedure. If by chance air makes it way to the ABS module, there are two ways to push it out. One is to use a scan tool that performs the procedure. A dealer can do this or you can buy a scan too for relatively low cost. Maybe about $100-140 for a Foxwell. The Foxwell does lots of other things beyond code reading.

Another way is without a scan tool. This method requires driving the car. Pick a location with no traffic and about a 25mph speed limit. Dry pavement. Go out and repeatedly and heavily engage the ABS. You may already have a sense what kind of pedal effort it takes to engage the ABS. If there is air in the ABS module, engaging the ABS will cycle the solenoids and push out the air. Sometimes the pedal gets even softer but you will still have adequate braking. I have done this and it works very well. After 3 or 4 times of ABS engagement, go back and bleed again. You should see more air and the pedal should become rock hard. Be mindful of your surroundings and level of traction. Don't do it with other cars around. Safety is paramount. The low speeds will allow enough energy to be attained to successfully engage the ABS yet not create a hazard to yourself or others. Again, use your best judgement. Stay in control.


Once complete, torque your bleeders to spec. On my SS 1LE, this is 13-15 lbs/ft. Then you'll want to clean out the bleeders. Bleeders seal at the bottom, using a taper against the caliper. Once closed, the bleeder has a column of brake fluid with in them. You must remove this trapped fluid otherwise it will:
-absorb moisture over time and corrode the bleeder and bleeder threads. When the fluid starts to corrode the threads, the resulting corrosion acts as a thread locker and this is a reason that bleeders may break the next time they are loosened.
-or, leak out over the caliper, possibly destroying the finish.
I use wooden Q-tips for firearm cleaning. Regular personal hygiene Q tips will also work. I cut of the cotton tip off and insert the wooden part into the bleeder. Since this will push out the trapped fluid. have a rag ready to absorb the fluid as it pushes out of the bleeder. Do this a couple times to remove the excess.
Wow! Great write up, very much appreciate you taking the time to write such a thorough explanation!

I think I'll do the "Dry Method" since my brother will be here so I'll have an extra set of eyes and hands...

Thanks again!
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2020 SGM 2SS - A10, NPP, MRC, Red Calipers, Black Fender Badge, Footwell Lighting
After delivery: - GMP CAI, GMP Black Strut Tower Brace, MRR017 1LE Wheels, SS Armrest, Black Fuel Door, Stainless Pedals, SS Wheel Caps, Black Lugs/Locks, GM Splash Guards, DD Smoked LED Markers, Smoked Rear Reflectors, Mishimoto Catch Can, Xpel PPF - Full Front, SunTek 35% Tint, CeramicPro coating, RST Stainless Brake Lines, Castrol SRF, MSD Super Conductor Wires

Left: My "fun" ride. Right: My "work" ride: a Gulfstream G600. One's top speed is 180 Mph, the other, 620 Mph... BOTH are a lot of fun to operate...
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