[2SS Capt]

Originally Posted by Alpha1BC

1) I'd suggest using blue. That reduces the risk of dropping one of the blocks as you drive down the road (bad day for your rear tires) and will be able to be removed easily, unlike red, if you ever have to remove the blocks.

2) I wouldn't mess with any sealant. If it's not a perfect seal it'll still let moisture in and likely accelerate the corrosion because it's holding moisture at the point that's unprotected. Kinda like how imperfect sealing coats on truck frames accelerate corrosion because it essentially forms pockets to keep what's corroding the steel right against the seal. IMO your better off sanding then using touch up paint if you see corrosion starting to pop up.

3) If using quick jacks, I think you'll have to use the "middle" and rear pinch weld cutouts. I don't think quick jacks are long enough to reach the front most cutout. I'm not familiar with the extensions, but when I've used quick jacks they didn't reach the front most cutout although that didn't have any issues with lifting or stability or anything like that. And yes, the single flat rubber blocks are best to use with the lift pads.

Many thanks for the feedback... That is what I was thinking on all accounts (especially #2)... Glad someone else reinforced my thoughts...

I'm hoping to be able to use the furthest forward area of the rear lift point and the very front lift point (as I have the extensions for my 5000SLX that make it a 5000EXT) but I'll certainly measure before cranking them tight to make sure what I can do... I've lifted my car many times from the center and aft lift points without the extensions (using pinchweld blocks) and it was fine, would prefer the front points if I can make them work...



I just make sure the gas tank is nearly full (also thought about buying a 50 lb bag of sand to throw in the back of the trunk for extra security when lifting...)