Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpha1BC
1) I'd suggest using blue. That reduces the risk of dropping one of the blocks as you drive down the road (bad day for your rear tires) and will be able to be removed easily, unlike red, if you ever have to remove the blocks.
2) I wouldn't mess with any sealant. If it's not a perfect seal it'll still let moisture in and likely accelerate the corrosion because it's holding moisture at the point that's unprotected. Kinda like how imperfect sealing coats on truck frames accelerate corrosion because it essentially forms pockets to keep what's corroding the steel right against the seal. IMO your better off sanding then using touch up paint if you see corrosion starting to pop up.
3) If using quick jacks, I think you'll have to use the "middle" and rear pinch weld cutouts. I don't think quick jacks are long enough to reach the front most cutout. I'm not familiar with the extensions, but when I've used quick jacks they didn't reach the front most cutout although that didn't have any issues with lifting or stability or anything like that. And yes, the single flat rubber blocks are best to use with the lift pads.
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I agree with all the above. I, however, didn't use thread locker when installing my lift points and the hardware remains tight after 15 months.
