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Old 06-05-2021, 07:20 PM   #29
cdb95z28


 
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Drives: 2022 1SS 1LE A10 BCD WCT+PDR
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Johnstown, PA
Posts: 3,206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain View Post
So, overall, not a big difference in ride feel between the FE4 and FEA link. I found myself easily getting used to the FEA and sorta losing any sense of a difference.

What I did notice, as immediate, initial impressions is:
-Ride harshness over bumps, bad road surfaces is about the same between the two links.
-In "Touring", but seemingly not "Sport" or "Track", over uneven surfaces between the right and left of the car seems to cause more of a bouncing ("pogo") effect, side-to-side, I don't remember as pronounced with the FE4 link.
-Call me crazy, but I think there is a slightly better steering feel/feel of the front tires. It is pretty minor.
-Also, call me crazy, but the front end definately feels... more in-tune to the ride frequency of the car, at least in "Touring". I did most of my driving in "Touring". I specifically remember the last time driving my car, noting I did not like the front damper tuning in "Touring" as it felt a bit over-active compared to the rear. With the FEA link, the car definitely feels more in-tune with the rear. The front just seems to feel a bit better damped or controlled than what I remember with the FE4. Not something you'll notice not thinking about it and just enjoying the drive, as I caught myself forgetting, but there when I payed attention.
-Brake dive seems a touch reduced.

I wish I did a better back-to-back comparison, with driving much sooner on the FE4 link to when I switched to the FEA.

I could be off on my impressions, but those are the thoughts I had within the first 30-45 min of driving.

Curious to hear others feedback when they do the install.
Concerning your ride and handling impressions with the new arms, did you torque the mounting bolts while the car was at ride height?

These type of arms with rubber bushings need to be torqued at ride height so the rubber is at a neutral state. Otherwise they will be in a constant state of bind, creating some of the effects you mentioned in your feedback.


This is known as timing the bushings. And it should be done any time an arm is removed or if there is a ride height change due to lowering springs.
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