Quote:
Originally Posted by Wintermute
Kicker key is what I have as well. How are you planning on installing it? I'm considering tapping either the fronts or backs for the amp input and then just running new cables all around to be done with it......
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I meant to follow up on this. If you plan to amplify the fronts and rears as a traditional 4-channel setup (and like the factory setup), then I would just use the factory speaker wiring. There's no need to pull all the panels off to run new wires to three pairs of speakers (dash, door, and rear panels). You can cut the front and rear outputs where they come out of the radio module and use those for the high-level amp inputs, and then send the amp's outputs into the other end of the cut speaker wires. That is a very straightforward installation: you're literally just inserting the amp in line with the speaker lines.
OTOH, I am planning to use the Kicker's biamp function and just amplify the front door and dash speakers using the amp to actively cross them over. I will fade out the rear speakers. If you do that and plan to retain the stock dash speakers, keep in mind that they have 68uF capacitors on them to serve as high-pass filters (not shown on the diagram - guess they are considered part of the P19H and P19V speakers). This will give a higher crossover frequency than the amp will try to use for its active crossover. You'll want to remove those caps, which is a bit of a pain because you'll have to remove each dash speaker to do that. Also, with this plan, you can still send one set of outputs to the stock door speaker wires, but you'll need to either cut into the dash speaker wires after they split off from the door speaker wires at junctions J207 and J208, or else just run new wires to the dash speakers. The latter will probably be easier since you have to pull the speakers out to ditch the capacitors anyway.