Thread: Alignment specs
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Old 03-22-2024, 02:23 PM   #26
Dirtbike
 
Drives: Chevrolet Camaro
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: AL
Posts: 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdrptrks View Post
This is incorrect. I have tried it myself in my driveway and closely watched a tech try it on an alignment rack. Yes there's some adjustment range without disengaging the splines but it can mechanically go farther with the splines disengaged. There's still a gap between the back of the knuckle and the strut when you don't disengage the splines so the camber is not mechanically maxed out. -1.8 vs. -2.7 is about the difference on a typical Camaro.
It's not incorrect..... But we'll agree to disagree. I'm not sure what you did in your driveway, but here is my test method:

The splines engage the aluminum knuckle, not the strut body/slots. You can free spin the splined OD of the bolts inside the strut slot with the knuckle removed. If there is any question (see video below). You are mechanically limited by the OD of these splines against the strut slots max L and R. The only other thing that might be mechanically limiting is if the contact face of your bolt may be hitting some deform or burr on the strut contact point. At the very least you may want to give it one small tap to create a tiny gap, but from what I've found on several Camaros so far - it's unnecessary. Definitely No need to expose the whole splined portion.

https://youtube.com/shorts/co6n3Nhm6...lfKklLVTepvOzb

I thought maybe I was mistaken, so I did this 3x times to confirm on an alignment rack this afternoon:

1. Loosened the nuts top/bottom, moved to max position, tightened down
2. Completely disengaged splines, moved to max position, tightened down

Once the bolts are tightened back down, anything you may gain with the splines/taper exposed will be removed once reengaged/pulled in.

Final results were exactly the same in both cases.
Top: 22.38mm from the face of the knuckle (using gm adjustment bolt hole with micrometer) to the back of the strut. See pic.

Then final camber using a Hunter laser alignment rack showed both methods were exactly the same.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cdrptrks View Post
Also it is not necessary to lift the car before loosening the nuts if you have enough room underneath to do it like when the car is on an alignment rack.
I never said it was.
I just prefer to final torque & mark mine with the wheels off.
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Last edited by Dirtbike; 03-22-2024 at 02:42 PM.
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