[vtirocz]

Originally Posted by gringo

Man, you guys are really overcomplicating this. I don't like using the pinch welds due to obvious reasons.

What I do is use the cross member up front with a 4x4 block of wood and the frame area behind and inboard of the front wheels.

For the back, I use a piece of wood on the rear cradle to body bushing point just inboard of the rear wheels where the rear subframe to rear cradle bushing sits.

I've lifted my car at these location points several times already with not so much as a scratch or mark done to the car. Of course, you may need some ramps in the front to raise it high enough to get the floor jack under the engine cradle with the piece of 4x4.

I've had no problems using this method on my 5th gen so the 6th gen should be very similar if not almost the same.

The 6th gen is not the same, unfortunately. The front cross-member is covered by the aluminum shear panel on SS and ZL1 models, so it's not practical to remove the aluminum shear panel each time. Inboard of the front wheels, there's a lift point that suitable for a 4pt lift, but not for jacking up one side at a time (several on the forum tried and posted pictures of damage afterwards). I'm going to have a closer look, but it appears that the pinch weld is the least risky jacking point in front (when jacking one side at at time) and is the only place recommended by GM. The rear is easy since the crossmember behind the diff can be used.

The LT models have it easier up front, since they don't have the aluminum sheer panel and the front crossmember is accessible.