04-27-2026, 09:42 PM
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#32
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Drives: 2017 2ss 6mt
Join Date: Mar 2024
Location: dallas
Posts: 1,537
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoppelNull_00
Hello community,
Recently there have been more car thefts in my neighborhood. Because of that, I decided to install a kill switch as well. I found this post and thought the instructions and reviews were really good, so I followed them and installed the switch myself. However, it only works about 90%, so I wanted to ask where my mistake might be.
- Instead of using a 16 AWG wire, I used a 20 AWG wire because it has the same thickness as the original green wire with a gray stripe.
- I used the following switch: https://www.amazon.com/Joinfworld-Ma...1zcF9hdGY&th=1
- I’m sure I found the correct wire, because when I activate the switch, the engine shuts off.
- I then cleared the OBD II code and left the switch on — everything works fine. Even after locking and restarting the car, there is no CEL.
- My problem is that I installed the switch in the trunk. Since I always cover the car anyway, I have to access the trunk every time, and it’s not noticeable when I use the switch in the trunk. However, I always get a CEL. My guess is: when I turn the switch off and lock the car, everything is fine. But when I open the car/trunk again, the system turns on and detects that there is no power going to the fuel pump. Then I flip the switch, and the car starts normally.
So my question is: do I just have to live with this issue because the switch is in the trunk, or did I use the wrong wires or switch?
About my car:
2021 Camaro ZL1 1LE
Manual transmission
I hope to get some answers from you, thank you!
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When you unlock the car it primes the fuel pump. So yea you will deal with that being an issue. To be honest an aftermarket alarm with the starter interrupt would work fine. You would have the inconvenience of 2 fobs but your car would still be sitting there when you came back to it.
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