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most anyone will suggest fluid flushes at certain miles because they get paid off of it. brake fluid is hydroscopic so it takes on moisture from the environment its really really rarely exposed to. look at the cap and find the vent in it that allows air to enter though the rubber diaphragm. its a very tiny slit in the middle of the rubber that you cant find unless you are bending the rubber over. so your brake fluid really isnt taking on much moisture, but whatever.
when you are bleeding brakes or swapping fluids in the brakes, you do furthest from the master cylinder first. RR, LR, RF, LF.
brakes are on a bias system so RF and LF are the same master cylinder feed and LF and RR are on the opposite.
the internals of a master cylinder has cup seals in it. cup seals are designed to be mechanically pressed in one direction and they will open to push fluid in that direction, once the movement has stopped and pressures equalize, the cup seal will retract and allow fluid to pass either direction.
forcing fluid in from the master cylinder can work but it can also force the cup seals in a direction they arent designed to do.
i personally havent had issues with that on brake fluid flushes but if you have problems then at least you know.
i would suggest a gravity fed brake fluid system and a brake hose to a container on the wheel your messing with. just do one at time and dont let the fluid run out.
its not rocket surgery.
use dot 4.
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