[RobZL1]

What we ARE convinced of, is that your brother's dyno is not calibrated correctly. It doesn't matter if you hit the road course, the drag strip, or the street. What we are saying is that those mods simply don't produce that much power.

For whatever reason, you seem to have a chip on your shoulder that anyone who doesn't road race knows nothing about cars, and that the oil cooler on the block is the source of all problems.

The flaw in that logic is when other shops do a cold dyno pull, a car with these mods will make 100rwhp less than your dyno. What I mean here is that the oil temp is no greater than the coolant temp at that point and coolant temps will only be 180 or so. This is because the car sat overnight on the dyno and just got started up and brought to temperature on the dyno. At that point, the heat from the factory oil cooler is not a consideration, and those cars simply don't make 790hp at the wheels- they make about 100 less. If that's not enough logic, there are also other cars with a block-off plate or a remote cooler that remove the heat source entirely. Those cars aren't suddenly putting down 100 extra hp when they remove the heat source.

Several of us said last time that we are sure you have the best setup for repeatable, reliable horsepower without heat soak, which is perfect for a road course. No argument there.

What you fail to acknowledge is twofold:
1) take one of RPM's or Vengeance's (or whoever's) car with intake/headers/pulley/e40, put it on your dyno cold and get it up to temperature. It is also going to make 790.
2) take your car to RPM's or Vengeance's dyno. It is going to make 680 or 690.

You have probably very well found the secret sauce to sustained power output over track sessions, back-to-back, and I applaud you for it!

But you have to acknowledge that you haven't found the secret sauce to maximum power on a "cold" dyno pull with an LT4. You just haven't, man.