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To close one line of inquiry, your SAI in those spec sheets is fine. Cross-SAI is merely the difference between one side and the other, but as mentioned before, that's a function of the other settings. There's no "SAI adjustment," so to speak. From what little I can see online, SAI in the 14ish range is correct for this car. We don't really need to keep discussing that spec.
What I do see is that your left rear toe went from 0.13 to 0.25 between the last two alignments...at least on paper. That may point to slipping toe adjusters (the aforementioned eccentrics). That really needs to be looked at. The spec on torquing that adjuster bolt is way more than most people think. Did I mention that eccentrics for alignment adjusters are the spawn of Satan?
The person that commented on steering angle sensor (SAS) brought up a good point. I don't know enough about how that works to say if you're in good shape after the dealership reset or not. But the other thing to check is whether the steering wheel was actually removed from the steering shaft and "reclocked" differently on the splines to make up for an off-center steering wheel. I've seen this done before by shops that don't know what they're doing. It screws up steering geometry because it leaves you with steering links of different lengths on each side. It's the wrong way to deal with an off-center steering wheel, and I could imagine it also confusing the SAS. A long time ago I had a dealership do this on a Passat I owned. The proper way to adjust steering wheel angle is with the threaded tie rods. If those don't get the job done, then you have a bigger issue with the rear not tracking correctly with the front. However, I think that would throw your thrust angle off, and yours is perfect, so don't think that's the issue.
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Matt Miller
2020 SS 1LE
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