[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by Llamarage

19x10" 19x11” for offsets 20mm front 43mm rear camber -3 front -2 rear

As mentioned by others, you're already at a slight disadvantage in that you are now limited to not going with a much wider front tire than OE. IIRC a 305/30-19 generally won't fit on a 10" wheel.



Any recommendation so I can do some research.

Something that won't wear quickly but is very friendly to a novice. I don't think new drivers should be running full tilt grip tires, on a car (non-1LE ZL1) not engineered for them. Falkan RT660, Conti Extreme Contact Force, the OE SC3 in 19" size.


Was looking for that exact part thank you. I've had to replace my pads and rotors once already due them over heating.

New drivers tend to abuse brakes more than advanced drivers. Work on technique before swapping brake parts (except cooling).


Would the following not work ? https://shop.aprperformance.com/collections/chevrolet

I have zero experience with adding aero. Like anything else, getting it tuned in takes time and knowledge. Work on understanding the car in OE form.


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Originally Posted by Llamarage

I've had to replace my pads and rotors once already was using new stock brake fluid, I've since moved to DOT4 and haven't had a problem since.

Was originally looking to only get a 2SS from factory but the offer I got for the Zl1 was to hard to pass up. The end goal for the car is a track car not a street car.

The reason I'm somewhat stuck on suspension upgrades is in mid to low speed corners the front feels floaty if that makes since.

FE4 suspension on the SS 1LE and ZL1 doesn't normally feel floaty. In fact, the suspension is quite awesome. Not ZLE awesome, but very much home at the track. The SS 1LE has less front nose weight and is a little more nible vs the ZL1 FE4. Are you aware of being able to change the MagRide damper settings? Is it possible you did not have the dmapers in Track mode? OR, was the car previously modified?

Originally Posted by Llamarage

100% for driver mod, I've taken the Performance school courses given at Pacific raceways.
When the weather allows it I do full track days 8am to 6pm.



Makes a lot of sense, when I do add mods it will be much later on just trying to but together a build path. Since cant do laps at the moment due to weather



Will do



Was going to do the PDR but went with a lap timer as to get the parts for it is roughly the cost of a set of new tires.

PDR is actually a great tool. Most don't know it is not just a camera. It captures tons of vehicle and lap data.

Originally Posted by VaporPressure

If your end goal is for it to be a track only car, I think you already bought the wrong wheels, unfortunately. ZLE in stock form uses wider 19x11 front and 19x12 rear wheels.

As for tires the OEM ZLE tire (GYSC3R) is faster than cup2s. Other options: Bridgestone RE-71RS (RE-71RZ coming soon and probably faster), Vitour P1, Nankang CRS, Falken 660+, GYSC3, Kumho V730 (nice budget option). Hoosiers eventually after some experience, if you feel like burning cash.
A lot of track guys buy 18" wheels to run new or used slicks. 18x11 fronts and 18x12 rears using Apex wheels is the easy option here.

Without seeing your driving it's hard to say exactly what's happening with the "floaty" feeling in mid and low speed corners. But if you're already cooking your pads and buying narrow front wheels (i.e. not appreciating what increased front tire will do), it's possible that you're shocking the front on entry (overbraking, too much steering input) and generating understeer early in the corner. As a beginner, I think that kind of thing is more likely causing your issue than the stock suspension set up.

^^This^^