[cdb95z28]

First thing is to find a new alignment guy. If they want to fight you on tire wear and being in the green is "good enough" then it will be a constant battle. He's lazy and has poor skills.

Since we are talking FE4, all the camber is adjusted at the strut to knuckle. Without grinding the upper slots, you can get -2* up front. You have to knock the bolts out enough to clear the splines. Place a jack under the rotor (don't damage the caliper) and keep the suspension loaded a little bit. The strut can be moved to max camber. Tighten the bolts with the suspension loaded. Going to max camber will make the toe go toward toe out, as Spez said, alot.

You wanting to do the front is fine but the skill of an alignment guy is gonna shine when he aligns the rear. Toe will move when camber is adjusted and vice versa. It is give and take. And IMHO, getting side to side symmetry matters here at the rear, more so on the rear toe. Find a guy who is a perfectionist. I do my own because I don't trust anyone else to do it to my desires. And know that both the toe and camber (lower control arm) eccentric bolts are one time use torque to yield bolts per GM. Some have reused, YMMV. The front strut bolts are not one time use.

For all the fasteners, follow GM's tightening procedures.

Double check your wheel/tire to strut clearance after camber setting.