Quote:
Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE
This is a great topic that I plan to do more testing on specific to the LT4. I think common logic understands that faster is not better past a certain point (undefined currently). I think it's clear that the most effective "cooling mods" are the ones that add capacity and surface area. Even at the same flow rate, there will be better heat transfer. too slow of a coolant flow will prevent efficient BTU transfer.... but too fast will also. There is a sweet spot which I believe is currently undefined. My guess is that it's somewhere between 5-6 GPM. Here is a clip from the flex-a-lite;
"Faster is not better when it comes to engine coolant flow rate. The purpose of a radiator is to support heat transfer, which is a time-dependent process. As Flex-a-Lite explains, to move the heat from one medium to another (engine to coolant to radiator to atmosphere), the coolant has to remain in contact with a surface for heat transfer to take place. Moving fluid too quickly through an area can result in laminar flow, where the fluid forms layers. The layer closest to the surface moves slower than layers farther away from the surface. When this occurs, the layers act as insulators and the capacity to transfer heat is diminished"
I am not sharing this to say that the CWA150 is not a beneficial modification... I do not know yet, and have not tested it yet on our system, but I have one, and plan to test more to measure flow, and pressure changes... as well as real world IAT.3 temps. Just wanted to contribute to the conversation.... and would love to see your GPM flow rate, although I know purchasing and installing the flow meter is very inconvenient. I will, and will share my data.
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Whoever wrote that does not do fluid dynamics for a living, that’s for sure.

Laminar flow results from moving the water too SLOWLY, since you lose turbulence. And in that situation their description is correct on that the outer layer of water “insulates” the moving water from the heat exchanger.
Now that said, they are correct that moving the water too fast can hurt since you’re not giving the water adequate dwell time on the heat exchangers for the heat to actually transfer. The example I give my guys is sort of like a train station…if the train is flying by the loading dock, no one is getting on or off the train haha!
I’m going to say it yet again: capacity does NOTHING for cooling. It’s a band aid for inadequate heat exchanger units and/or improper flow. Period. Now if you know you’re not upgrading your blower bricks or heat exchanger, and more water capacity can help that, then by all means go for it. Interchiller is in the same boat…it won’t cool fast enough at WOT so you need some capacity, so I get it. But E85 is superior to a Interchiller and renders it unnecessary since alcohol needs heat to properly vaporize.
Back to capacity: I run zero capacity in my system and enjoy IATs that drop as the run goes on…because I have good heat exchangers and good flow. As I continue to turn the power up, I will probably make more improvements on that front using Gabe’s stuff.

If I reach a point in power output where larger heat heat exchangers don’t keep up, then I’ll begrudgingly add capacity. But that’s extra weight so it’s a worst case scenario so I’ll avoid that as long as possible.
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2017 Chevy Camaro 2SS A8 Whipple 3.0, Mast Black Label heads, ATI 8L90, Fore triple in-tank pumps, 112mm TB, LPE +52% injectors & BB HPFP, TooHighPSI/Katech port injection, 15” conversion 1066 WHP STD/1027 SAE, 9.10@152.5 (new times coming)