Quote:
Originally Posted by clg82
wow didn't even realize this, did you have to remove yours as well radz? I'm sure my installer is aware of this, will follow up with them tomorrow. May be in the market for this modification as well!
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Initially - I cut on mine, just to see if I could get lucky, and not have to replace the lid. I cut above both front corners of the lid, but I was still getting contact around the rear of the blower lid (near the corners, too, but not exactly). I think the bolts for this panel were rubbing the lid a bit.
So - I got a lid on the way, and replaced that panel with a new one, and cut open the OEM vent holes to their maximum (to the edge of where the plastic deflector GM uses), so the OEM deflector will still work, if I install it. THPSI, if I recall, includes button-head bolts for the rear of the their billet lid, for a little more clearance, too, but I've seen no hint of rubbing or contact since.
Andrew @ CSP said he didn't have to replace TREEL1's lid when adding THPSI's PI-plates, but he's had that thing in and out so much, maybe the motor mounts are positioned such that the engine's lower or something. I don't know, but that's what he told me when I emailed him about that install, and noticed he still had the Maggie lid on the 2650.
Regardless - I'd keep that $$$ available, just in case. DSX has a lower profile lid, too, but I have experience with the THPSI lid, so I know that works just fine. Maybe your guys already though of this, so I'm just throwing that out there. Shoot - if you don't care for this panel, as long as you don't drive in the rain, it might not be that bid a deal to run without one, IMO. Run SOCAL's brace, leave that panel off, and run with it. I'd still check the hood, above the rear part of the lid, but maybe there's just enough room.
I'm not a big fan of the way the underside of the hood looks without this panel, but for better cooling - I might be able to look the other way, lol.