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Originally Posted by DoggyB22
Lol well more so for launching better, what is weak points on the factory parts. Doing hard launches on stock parts isn't always the best. Factory parts weigh more than aftermarket. Replacing all the factory with aftermarket lightens it up a lot. Etc etc
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The weight of suspension pieces is completely irrelevant for your (and most other people's) purposes. So for launching, I would think you want to do two things: 1) eliminate any hop if possible, and 2) maximize and tailor the weight transfer to maximize traction.
WhiteMale already listed some things to address #1. I confess I'm not sure what the rear swaybar has to do with it on a car with IRS, since there is no asymmetric torque loads around the driveshaft to twist the car like there is with a solid-axle car. I'm not saying he's wrong - just that I'm not clear how a stiffer (I presume) rear bar helps. I think the main thing you would want is to make as many pivot points (mostly bushings with stock suspension) rigid in location around a single point, while avoiding bind wherever possible. Since all the links in our multi-link IRS move in multiple planes, the only way to achieve this is with links that use spherical rod ends. Do not use links with axial bushings made from harder-than-stock material, such a polyurethane or Delrin.
I've already given you an overview of how to improve weight transfer. You want the car as high as possible, at least until it starts to wheelie. If you get to that point, congratulations: you've achieved 100% weight transfer. Until then, the higher your ride height, the closer you can get to that goal. Beyond that, you want the stiffest rear springs you can get, with rear shocks with tons of compression rate and minimal rebound rate. Up front you probably want the softest springs you can get, again with dampers that have lots of compression rate and minimal rebound. You probably want no sway bar at all up front, too. In short, you're trying to keep the rear end from squatting as much as possible, while generally letting the front end rise as much as possible, and using the front dampers to manage the slowest, gentlest front ride height settling possible so as not to shock the rear tires loose.
All of this will make for a downright dangerous car when turning, especially if you also increase the rear swaybar rate as WhiteMale recommended. I'd go so far as to suggest having both swaybars easily disconnectable: you can do this with quick-disconnect end links (see how off-roaders do this on their Jeeps). For an actual race, disconnect the front bar at both ends so it doesn't limit rebound travel, and connect the rear bar (I guess?). For street driving or any other driving where you actually have to turn corners, connect the front bar and probably disconnect the rear bar (especially if you do what I said with the spring rates). Otherwise, you're liable to end up on an episode of Ridiculousness.
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Aftermarket will always be better than stock for racing 
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That's not true at all. There are loads of aftermarket parts that are worse than stock suspension pieces in many ways.