10-02-2024, 01:44 PM
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#22
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Super Stock
Drives: Chevrolet Camaro ZL1
Join Date: May 2022
Location: Concordia
Posts: 982
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobZL1
Any chance you pulled something loose in the wiring harness at the pedal when you removed the JMS harness?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid_blue_zl1_22
This was my thought as well. If the JMS was wired into the accelerator pedal, then maybe the wire was cut (Fully or partially) while removing it. Especially if a wire tap was used to install it. I have seen those cause so many wiring problems.
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The harness was intact and never modified because I used JMS's pass through wiring harness. Everything was fully functional prior to pulling the actual JMS harness to the FPDCM itself. I left the pass through wiring harness to the pedal in place for sake of just doing less during de- modification. I pulled the wiring afterwards to see if the JMS setup itself was causing issues and the issue persisted. The wiring to the pedal itself has never been abused or tugged on excessively hard or anything that would cut it/ damage its connection to the accelerator pedal.
I've got a Soler throttle body and though it tested out okay on HPT, Katech suggested trying my OEM original to rule it out.
I just can't understand how a throttle body would suddenly go bad from one moment to the next though. Same with the accelerator pedal.
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2017 Red Hot ZL1 A10 - Apex ARC-8's, 305/ 325 PS4's, DSX 9.06 12% lower, Griptec OE upper, NGK HR7 Ruthenium plugs, Nostrum 25+ injectors, XDI Goliath HPFP, Katech dual in tank LPFP, Katech oil pump, LME tensioner, DOD delete, LT1 big fuel cam, Jokerz ported blower, MPI lid, GMS hood extractor bracket, Granatelli SS plug wires, Cordes LTR reservoir, DMS T-stat housing, 186* LS3 T-stat, Borla X pipe, Black Widow Angry Housewife/ Corsa NPP mufflers, BMR engine mounts, Banks iDash, Lithium Battery, AEM X- Series, HP Tuners, E85, 16.5 psi
758 HP/ 804 TQ

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