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So I tackled some of these installs along with my MCS 2WNR.
The SPL rear upper arms were very easy to install. Since my struts were already coming off, I had more room with the coils removed. Still needed to use a wrench on the nut with the frame in the way and a socket on the head. Also had to torque the head and not the nut, no room to get a socket on the nut.
The rear camber lockout was more of a pain. I could not get the arms into the inboard position, so I put the washer in the middle position on both sides. I messed up one side, the washer flats were not in full contact with the arm so I needed to redo it. Witness marked everything, so we'll see how I did later on. I increased camber from -2.4 to -2.1 since my outsides barely looked worn after Ozark. Alignment shop said there was no issues getting -2.1
The front tension rod also was much easier than anticipated, I was dreading this one. I bought the harbor freight ball joint separator and a Dremel, but I hit the nut with the newest M18 1/2 high torque impact and both sides fell out after the nut was loose. I also only have 7500 miles on the car.
I also decided to go the route of loosening the aux coolers instead of cutting the bolt out. I think this was the right way to do it, as it was pretty easy. Having quickjacks made this much easier I'm sure, as I had plenty of room everywhere. Removing the wheel liners is a bunch of 7mm bolts, a couple of 10mm, and torx screws. After removing, the 3 bolts on the aux coolers are relatively easy to loosen with a wrench. The brake deflector is also 2 pieces, at least on my 2020. You can pop out the piece that is blocking the bolt for more access to remove the bolt. On the driver side, I had to fully remove the aux cooler bolts to get enough room to pull the bolt. Driver side I didn't.
I was a bit confused on how the install with the SPL tension rod to knuckle, so gave them a call. You want to use the least amount of anti dive spacers on the bolt, which in my case was 2 of the big spacers and 1 small spacer. 2 big spacers there wouldn't be enough threads to fully tighten the nyloc nut.
Speaking of which, torquing those nuts was very difficult. 110 lb ft on lubed threads was pretty hard. Had to use a 12mm 1/2 breaker bar on the hex on the bottom of the bolt to hold the bolt in place while tightening the nyloc nut.
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