Quote:
Originally Posted by Slurpee
I definitely think a splined bolt is required for the top strut hole because it is oval vs circular, but the bottom appears to just hold it in place. Not sure how much movement there would be without the splines, especially with how high of a torque setting these bolts are at (111lb ft + 80-95 degrees). I had to hammer one bolt so much that I've actually rounded it a bit. I need to use a 12 point socket to seat it now, which is why I picked up the ball joint press to press it in, and why I am leaning towards using a bolt without splines and witness marking it to see if there any movement on the bolt and nut. If not, then I would imagine there is no impact to the alignment.
Shipping damage is the worst. I only have 1 knob that is a little finicky to depress, other than that have not had issues with turning the knobs. I have them all set at the MCS baseline recommendation.
But I was also a little disappointed with Vorshlag. My dampers were 2-3 weeks late being shipped out, even with the dampers arriving early to Vorshlag. Once the dampers arrived and my camber plates arrived, all of my emails were ghosted. I had to call for an update and was told mine were next to be assembled for 2 weeks. Car has been on quickjacks for a month by the time the dampers came in.
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Yeah, not sure I'd give Vorshlag my business again.
MCS also knows about the spline bolt issue and apparently have not revised the hole diameter after I talked to them about it. I'd consider reaming out the shock mounting tab on the MCS strut so the splines still engage but the bolt is easier to install. You may have luck with a non-splined bolt though, idk.