Quote:
Originally Posted by Baddawg53
I ran mine on the jack stands for a bit after initial startup. Put it in gear and let the wheels spin for a minute. I figured that was enough to get the fluid through the system. I don't think it would take more than a few minutes to get everything to flow. I thought I'd lose quite a bit when I disconnected the lines, but really not much got lost.
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Yeah I might be over-thinking it. I just thought if there was a procedure to bleed the system it'd be worth looking into.
I'm still on the fence about my break-in procedure, too. I was planning on doing a 20-30min warm up and then dump the oil/filter, fill with the good break-in oil and go drive and set the rings. More research is pushing more toward just fire it up, have someone keep the idle high and random, check for leaks for 5 min or so, and go drive it and set the rings. Instead of doing a trash oil dump just put the good break-in oil in and go essentially. After the rings are set, it'll end up being about an hour on the engine by the time I get back to the garage, then I can dump the oil and the #2 good break-in oil goes in and the next time it fires up will be for the dyno.
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2019 1SS1LE M6 Shadow Gray Metallic
ProCharger D1X Race Kit - 4.25" Pulley || GPI Pistons/Rods - ACL Bearings - ARP Hardware || LME Timing Chain Guide || Katech C5R Timing Chain || Katech OE Spec Billet Oil Pump || OE Ported Heads || CHE Trunnion Upgrade || BTR 220 Cam - BTR .660" Dual Springs - GM Racing "Caddy" Lifters - BTR 3/8" Pushrods (7.825") || ATI Balancer || LT4 Injectors || LT4 HPFP || JMS BAP || DSX Flex Fuel || LT2 Intake Manifold || LTH (Catless) || Stainless Works Redline Series NPP || 91 + 8oz Boostane
7/26/2024 Tuning in progress