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Old 06-20-2024, 12:52 PM   #5
GreyGhost702
 
Drives: 2019 Camaro 1SS1LE
Join Date: Jan 2024
Location: Utah
Posts: 370
Quote:
Originally Posted by lDejavul View Post
So my oil pump just went at 60k miles on my 16SS M6. So I figured while in there a CAM would be nice. This is my first sports car and I've done all the work myself so far but this is beyond what I can research\do on a rushed timeline so I'm having it done at a local shop.

What I already have.
Pray remote tuned.
Kooks long tube headers 1 7/8 in. x 3 in
Pray ported ZR1 throttle body (95mm)
Pray ported intake manifold (stock)
Rotofab CAI
DSX Flex Fuel E-85 kit
Cats Removed

My concerns are getting the most out of the car while not beating it to death. I have been researching the best ways to prolong the life of the motor while having a fun cam. I don't race and mostly highway drive. I would say a good 80 percent of my time is highways, but I do enjoy being able to take it around the city.

The shop here recommends I put in TSP stage 2 cam kit, 227/242 .646"/.631" 112 LSA, 109.5 ICL w/ +32% and TSP trunnion upgrade kit.

And they recommended having TSP port the heads as well, but after reading about the issues with porting the stock heads and knowing Pray is probably months away from even answering emails I think I've settled on the PRC heads from TSP. I would love some MAST heads but they are beyond my budget.


I'm concerned about the TSP CAM first and foremost. Unless there is a revision to the CAM I read the lobe is pretty aggressive and read bad things about float and bounce. I do like the numbers I see from their dynos but if I can do it smarter I'm all in. I was wondering if maybe the BTR Gen V 225 would be a smarter move. I do love a choppy sounding lobe.

Here's the rest of my plans but only talked to the shop yesterday and hes out today so I'm looking for feedback before I go.

PRC heads with the standard fittings"2.165" Stainless Hollow stem Intake Valve / 1.600" Stainless Exhaust Valve
TSP .660 Spring Kit w/ PAC Valve Springs & Titanium Retainers
CHE Bronze Guides"
2110r Johnson lifters (worth it from what I've read?)
TSP Trunnion kit (havent seen any reason to go above these)
Katech C5R timing chain
Replace current chain tensioner -Not sure if I should do the $250 LMR chain guide but at least getting a new stock tensioner.
Katech oil pump A7503 that has higher oil pressure but requires a tune.

Any advice? Anything thing I missed?
Looks like good parts to me. Cam choice is like asking what flavor soda someone likes to drink. BTR has a lot of great tech talk and cam R&D, and I haven't seen anyone saying they've been unhappy with their cams.

I went with the LME timing chain guide, but I've had friends with LS's run them so I wasn't worried. Famous last words for me, LOL. I'm not running a VVT delete, so we'll see how it likes that. 4 degrees shouldn't be that big of a deal though. Don't forget your DOD delete plugs, and VVT limiter (or lockout/Delete). Gaskets/seals as well. I'm sure the shop you pick will advise you on those details, though. I went with the VVT limiter for my build, since my car is more weekend toy. But if it gives me issues, I'll go full delete on its ass. BTR claims their cam likes VVT though, so we shall see.

As for your choice in oil pump, any particular reason you're wanting to run the higher pressure oil pump? I went with the Katech billet pump for my build, but OE spec. My engine is built to factory tolerances, and I plan to run 5w30 as I never track my car and it will see limited abuse, maybe running to the top of 1-4 gears. Beyond that, there aren't many roads for me to use the top of 5th gear. And I don't do WOT in 6th because I'm not a fan of skylights in my blocks. IMO the only reason to use a higher pressure or higher volume pump is in an aftermarket block, using bearing clearances that call for it, or parts the are spec'd for an increase in demand. The higher pressure pump is only going to increase pressure at peak. While oiling ~is~ critical at high rpm, more pressure could cause premature bearing wear or damage elsewhere in the system. I think having good oil/filter in the car and having good oil change habits is more beneficial than a higher pressure pump in a factory engine with factory tolerances.

I just suggest being careful with that, based on your intended use of the car, I don't see a need to go higher pressure and I think it could just open the door to unintended problems down the road.

Other than that, I wish I had done what you're build sheet looks like, for myself lol. It will be a fun machine all said and done.
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2019 1SS1LE M6 Shadow Gray Metallic
ProCharger D1X Race Kit - 4.25" Pulley || GPI Pistons/Rods - ACL Bearings - ARP Hardware || LME Timing Chain Guide || Katech C5R Timing Chain || Katech OE Spec Billet Oil Pump || OE Ported Heads || CHE Trunnion Upgrade || BTR 220 Cam - BTR .660" Dual Springs - GM Racing "Caddy" Lifters - BTR 3/8" Pushrods (7.825") || ATI Balancer || LT4 Injectors || LT4 HPFP || JMS BAP || DSX Flex Fuel || LT2 Intake Manifold || LTH (Catless) || Stainless Works Redline Series NPP || 91 + 8oz Boostane

7/26/2024 Tuning in progress
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