Quote:
Originally Posted by beworthy3
So the inside of the rotor looks done to me, the bottom of the pad had no material left so it was metal on metal. I figure the only reason it would happen to this degree is because the pistons are not retracting properly? The top of the pad had close to half material left. My piston seals looked to be starting to crack. I heard before that people do caliper rebuilds. Is it about time for that?
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Pad taper is very common, and probably worse on oem pods that get too hot. it helps to flip the pads between track days. I also switch between OEM (Ferodo HP1000) for street and autox and Ferodo 3.12 for track. Since both are Ferodo you don't need to rebed the brakes when switching, and once you get it down you can change pads really quickly. The 3.12s are $$$ bot worth it, they last a long time and performance on track is amazing.
I was just looking at rotors, I found DBAs w/o hats for just under $300 each if you don't mind reusing the hats, and $750 for OEM rotors with hats on amazon.