[radz28]

Well - I don’t have a really definitive conclusion, but what I know is the gauge reads FULL with a FULL tank.

I spent at least an hour trying to juggle the transfer lines around the float, and confirming, as best I could, they would not be in the arc of the arm/float, as they articulated through their range of motion. It was nearly impossible to see inside the tank, with a flashlight, and get a tool, at the same time, to move the arm/float up and down, AND see the dang lines, but it seems like if it’s done right, the float actually passes beyond the same space as the lines. So - that is as good as I could get it. I did re-clock the “T” fitting on the new bucket, but I’m not sure that was a real problem. I noticed on a couple YT videos that this "T" seemed to point in the WRONG direction of it's line. The factory makes up for this by "rolling" the "T" over itself to point in the opposite direction to meet the line. I'm not sure why it does this, but that's what pictures and videos show. Because the OEM "T" hose is more rubbery, and flexible, this wasn't as, seemingly, a big deal, but Katech's "T" and lines were bigger and more rigid (not rubbery either), so they weren't as flexible. Rolling the Katech "T" over on itself, like the OEM "T", was not as easy without reclocking the "T" in the lines. Katech did say it was okay to do so, and I did it, even though it was what seemed to be THE SAME angle as stock. So - your mileage may vary, and I still would not imply this is a design fault or anything. I WOULD SAY to take your time here. That is all. No one else has had this issue, so just take your time. Therefore - I'm not judging my initially gauge problem with Katech's module. I freely admit I didn't take as much time as I should have, and I did rush a little. I'm fairly certain this was my doing.

Finally - I added some nutzerts and adel clamps to finalize everything for the new filter and lines. I’m finally at peace with this aspect. I used adhesive foam to insulate the lines from rubbing on the floor. If that was good enough for the factory to use on the fuel tank (from the tank to the body, I assume, to keep from rubbing or NVH), I figured it was good enough for me. A couple zipties were strung for just a little more security, but the bulk of the work is the nutzerts/adel clamps. I, also, added spacers to the floor brace to give a little more room for the additional fittings for the new filter. My ghetto (my natural habitat) coolant hose insulation also helped to prevent rubbing among the plastic OEM lines and connections. So - no rubbing with anything, nor NVH. AND - the filter addition and it's location don't add to less ground clearance or anything. It seems to take up less space than the DSX aux' kit. Also - under the hood - while I did have to buy a TMAP sensor extension (because of previous harness routing changes under the blower) because of eliminating the DSX breakout, under the fuse box, where the DSX controller initially was, is cleaned up a fair amount, as well as the additional harness for that system, too, so it's just a little cleaner under the hood. No one else but me would notice, but I see it, and one less system outside of OEM is always better, when possible, IMO. If the REFLEX can handle it, why shouldn't I use it? I was able to hide more of the REFLEX harness behind and under the headlight, too, so that just makes it all a little nicer. The bit of a bummer was locating the solid state relay that the REFLEX triggers to control the aux' pump. That was a little complicated, but THPSI's notes show you how to hook it all together. I should have waited to wire everything when installing the SSD, but I didn't because I was hoping to make the install a little faster. The result was I had some longer parts of the harness than I needed in a couple places, so it's not as clean as I had hoped for, but it also gave me some flexibility in the future. Funny enough - I used the same routing as Katech shows for their aux' pump controller, and didn't even know it until now. There's a perfect little OEM grommet in the passenger's side wheelwell that the pump ground/power harness and REFLEX signal wire can go through. It's not as good as I would like, but it will do for now, so that will do. It's not as clean as the DSX, I'll grant you, but I put it by the battery, and it's covered by the trunk trim, so you don't see it anyways. It will do for now.

That’s about the last of this aspect. There’s some road tuning for the REFLEX aux’ pump control. It SEEMS to be working as the fuel pressure comes in smoother than before, and the only spikes noted in the log were after in boost, with the pump cranking, and letting off the throttle abruptly. It would spike momentarily, but fall immediately, which seems to make sense. Both DI and PI fuel flow shut-off, and that pressure has to go somewhere, so It seems reasonable to expect to see that, under that circumstance. So - some more of that driving and try to find traction, and a safe place for WOT. All of it seems to be going to plan.