Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirtbike
FYI there is really no need to knock the bolts out exposing the splines. I happened to have my wheels off so I took a short video to explain.
https://youtube.com/shorts/vYGwaJHCA...3xVP1ALXD-lDyC
It will move to its min/max values without exposing them.
Easiest thing to do is loosen both nuts, set the car back down with the wheels back on (on the alignment rack). The weight of the car will push the camber negative as far as it mechanically can go. Then use the threaded bolt hole at the top of the hub (install the GM adjustment bolt, or whatever M8? you have handy) to adjust back positive where you want it, tighten the nuts back down. Then set your toe and torque everything down. Hope that makes sense. |
This is incorrect. I have tried it myself in my driveway and closely watched a tech try it on an alignment rack. Yes there's some adjustment range without disengaging the splines but it can mechanically go farther with the splines disengaged. There's still a gap between the back of the knuckle and the strut when you don't disengage the splines so the camber is not mechanically maxed out. -1.8 vs. -2.7 is about the difference on a typical Camaro.
Also it is not necessary to lift the car before loosening the nuts if you have enough room underneath to do it like when the car is on an alignment rack.