Thread: LT1 rebuild
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Old 12-18-2023, 08:19 PM   #19
oldman


 
Drives: SS 6 speed of course
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Hilo, HI
Posts: 4,325
Quote:
Originally Posted by Baddawg53 View Post
Thanks for sharing that video, really good stuff in there. Definitely subscribed to that channel.

I'm going to build the engine myself, I've built enough to have the confidence to do it, just not the LT1 engine.
I've found the LT1 to be an easy engine to work on. The parts I would be carful of are:
1) the thrust bearing, Tim M did his I never did mine (stock crank)
2) do you need to line bore mains when changing to studs, normally yes but if the mains have guide pins, maybe not. It has been explained to me as put the crank in and if it spins easily, you are golden.
3) I did multiple torques before final torque using APR lube on the con bolts, IMO I should have found my old one or got a new bolt stretch gauge (after market rods). Use stretch gauge if applicable period.
4) I would have and should have gone with a 3 bolt cam and gear and toss all that phasing stuff away.
5) luv the Katech oil pump, it was not available when I built my engine
6) C5R timing chain (don't know if it works with 3 bolt cam and gear)
7) I torque my ARP head studs -10 ft-lbs less from memory, I did a few calculations and have no idea why the ARP studs are so tight that IMO the studs are actually deforming. Never had a problem, your milage may vary.
8) cracking in the port is a problem and I found that aftermarket studs or the bolts that come with rocker fulcrums are too long and increase the chances of cracking in the top of the port
9) aggressive lift race cams make power but they compromise valvetrain, guide, valve and seat integrity, live with 20 HP less and a cam that can go 100K miles
10) get an LT1 valve spring installer, on the car or off it was easy peas' to use.
11) Johnson lifters, LS7 lifters are not really made for most aftermarket cams.

Things common to all good builds
1) get a piston ring filler, don't do that by hand
2) check and check again lifter preload
3) get that funnel shaped piston installer, made it so easy
4) run the clearance called for by application, a heavy track car needs more clearance.
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Forged short block, large duration sub .600 lift Cam Motion cam, 7200 RPM fuel cut, Pray Ported Heads, 3.85 pulley D1X, stage II intercooler, DSX secondary low side, DSX E85 sensor, Lingenfelter big bore 2.0 pump, ported front cats, 60608 Borla, LT4 injectors, ZL1 1LE driveshaft and Katech ported TB, ported MSD intake, BTR valvetrain, ARP studs, ProFlow valves, PS4 tires.
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