|
OK, so posting an update and hopefully some useful information for others that are going to do their brakes.
first part of the update, and it's good news. drove the car this morning in normal conditions and down some side streets to do some hard brake testing. no fluid on the threads or in the bleeder. i removed the caps, put a toothpick down the bleeder and they are all dry. PHEW.
braking under "emergency" felt normal.
so, the solution to my weeping/seeping threads was the following:
1. buy a damn 1/4 torque wrench and brake clean
2. remove bleeder valves, clean them careful and using a small brush / dabber cleaned the matting surface inside the caliper.
3. reinstall bleeder valve
4. bleed brakes, again.
5. using the torque wrench from step 1 (LOL) torque the bleeders to spec. i found that every single bleeder took more torque than i could apply with an open 11mm wrench. for future reference for anyone wondering, i set my torque wrench to 170 in lbs of torque.
6. using a nozzle on the brake clean, insert it into the bleeder and give it a healthy dose of brake clean.
7. clean caliper
8. leave the caps off and allow the bleeders to dry out from the brake clean
9. test drive
everything worked out for me, brakes are strong and no more dribble.
__________________
Mike
Current Garage:
18' 2SS 1LE, Hyper Blue
23' GMC Canyon Denali
Previously:
20' GMC Canyon Denali
16' 2SS 6MT, Hyper Blue, Kalahari, 20" PVW Chrome Split wheels, NPP, MRC (Total Loss)
14' Ford Edge Sport
06' Saab 9-7x,13' Nissan 370z Sport, 12' VW Jetta GLI, 02' Olds Bravada
|