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StanZL1 · 11-19-2022, 01:27 PM

Looking to DIY more bass to the Bose system. No competitions or sonic perfection. Not advertising. Just a bit more punch when the windows are down at 80mph at 3/4 system volume. Powered subwoofer only w/remote knob for bass control (if recommended) + Active Noise Cancellation delete/override. Remove the box if needed during road course track sessions.

Eyes on a single 10-12" sealed or ported for classic rock, metal, & hip hop.
Rockford Fosgate P300-10 (10" 300W RMS)
Pioneer TS-WX1010A (10" 150watts? RMS)
Pioneer TS-WX1210AM (12" 150W RMS)
Kicker 46HS10 (10" 180watts RMS)
JL Audio ACS110LG-TW1 (10" 400W RMS) is nice, but a bit outside my budget.

I've read most of the threads.
Seeking feedback from those who have installed similar small-scale add ons.

First shop I went to immediately pitched the $1,100 JL Audio Stealthbox, + $600 Amp + AudioControl LC2i + 3hrs installation with Velcro strips.
I know I would be completely satisfied with JL, but its 2-3x more than my budget for a car I put under 5k miles a year on.

1. Was told I need to use the 400W capable JL Audio LOC22 or Audio Control LC2i for $100-$150 because T-tapping the factory Bose speakers will overpower the speaker level input of any amp or overpower any $25 Scosche/Kicker LOC. I get the idea. I once read GM Marketing claimed 900W Max on the 9 speaker Bose system... I guess the 50W RMS per channel is mathematically possible; but doubting that an amp GMPartsDirect.com sells for $310 is seriously rocking 450W RMS total. Anyone believe the JL or Audio Control sales pitch? Anyone turn up their Bose system so loud that you fried a Socshe/Kicker LOC or amp using speaker level inputs? I figure by tapping & keeping the rear deck speakers, they would still dissipate majority of the Bose amp power.

2. For those who went this factory-add-on route, are you happy with single sub @ 125W-150W range in the trunk, or wish you'd gone 300W RMS or higher?

3. If you road course track your car, are Velcro strips really enough to keep the box in place? Did you cover the entire box footprint in Velcro? Or remove the sub and cap the wires or pull power fuses.

4. Any noticeable difference directing the subs forward (into the back seat) or backwards?

5. Better to cut the ANC microphones at the factory amp, in the door, or buy a plug adapter from Amazon? Using Apple CarPlay to take a cellphone call already sucks - no one can hear me with the window up - I'm not worried about it getting worse.

6. Shop owner said Bose suppresses low frequencies at higher volumes. Explains why I want more bass in the first place. yet another reason why I don't believe I need a LC2i in needed. Are you constantly adjusting the remote sub volume to compensate, or set & forget like most systems?

Thanks for the feedback.

11-19-2022, 01:27 PM	#1
StanZL1 Drives: 2022 Camaro ZL1 Join Date: Oct 2019 Location: SE Michigan Posts: 26	Bose + powered sub suggestions? Looking to DIY more bass to the Bose system. No competitions or sonic perfection. Not advertising. Just a bit more punch when the windows are down at 80mph at 3/4 system volume. Powered subwoofer only w/remote knob for bass control (if recommended) + Active Noise Cancellation delete/override. Remove the box if needed during road course track sessions. Eyes on a single 10-12" sealed or ported for classic rock, metal, & hip hop. Rockford Fosgate P300-10 (10" 300W RMS) Pioneer TS-WX1010A (10" 150watts? RMS) Pioneer TS-WX1210AM (12" 150W RMS) Kicker 46HS10 (10" 180watts RMS) JL Audio ACS110LG-TW1 (10" 400W RMS) is nice, but a bit outside my budget. I've read most of the threads. Seeking feedback from those who have installed similar small-scale add ons. First shop I went to immediately pitched the $1,100 JL Audio Stealthbox, + $600 Amp + AudioControl LC2i + 3hrs installation with Velcro strips. I know I would be completely satisfied with JL, but its 2-3x more than my budget for a car I put under 5k miles a year on. 1. Was told I need to use the 400W capable JL Audio LOC22 or Audio Control LC2i for $100-$150 because T-tapping the factory Bose speakers will overpower the speaker level input of any amp or overpower any $25 Scosche/Kicker LOC. I get the idea. I once read GM Marketing claimed 900W Max on the 9 speaker Bose system... I guess the 50W RMS per channel is mathematically possible; but doubting that an amp GMPartsDirect.com sells for $310 is seriously rocking 450W RMS total. Anyone believe the JL or Audio Control sales pitch? Anyone turn up their Bose system so loud that you fried a Socshe/Kicker LOC or amp using speaker level inputs? I figure by tapping & keeping the rear deck speakers, they would still dissipate majority of the Bose amp power. 2. For those who went this factory-add-on route, are you happy with single sub @ 125W-150W range in the trunk, or wish you'd gone 300W RMS or higher? 3. If you road course track your car, are Velcro strips really enough to keep the box in place? Did you cover the entire box footprint in Velcro? Or remove the sub and cap the wires or pull power fuses. 4. Any noticeable difference directing the subs forward (into the back seat) or backwards? 5. Better to cut the ANC microphones at the factory amp, in the door, or buy a plug adapter from Amazon? Using Apple CarPlay to take a cellphone call already sucks - no one can hear me with the window up - I'm not worried about it getting worse. 6. Shop owner said Bose suppresses low frequencies at higher volumes. Explains why I want more bass in the first place. yet another reason why I don't believe I need a LC2i in needed. Are you constantly adjusting the remote sub volume to compensate, or set & forget like most systems? Thanks for the feedback.