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Old 09-01-2022, 01:47 PM   #30
acammer
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Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS SGM
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Weedsport, NY
Posts: 2,821
Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1Formulation View Post
Right now, I'm at my wit's end with this car. I replaced the broken axle with a parts store special, and it blew apart at the inner CV on a 1-2 shift on the street, 3 days after installing it. After talking to an axle company about upgrading it, I feel that the effort is futile. The car is lowered and I don't want to raise it back up, and offset diff bushings can only do so much. I already have a '98 Firebird Formula M6 that's getting a turbo Gen IV aluminum block 5.3 and that has a Strange S60 with a spool. I could dump the clutch at 6K and dead hook and wouldn't hurt that axle. My SS wasn't meant to be a full on drag car, just something fun to play with and take to the track occasionally. But breaking axles on the street just grabbing gears is ridiculous. Going to the track would just mean another expensive tow bill, because there's no way it wouldn't break on a prepped surface. The clutch might actually be the culprit here, because it bites hard as hell. It's a 6 puck ceramic with a sprung hub. Pedal effort isn't noticeably different than stock, and I have to really be slow releasing it to have any sort of chatter. I'd read and watched numerous reviews on the clutch and people complaining of chatter during the break in had me ready to experience it, but I had absolutely zero chatter during break in. As I said, this thing grips like crazy, every time I shift I can feel it shock the driveline. Not healthy, I'm sure, but the window of engagement on this thing is damn near non-existent. I should have went with something less aggressive, but I figured I'd get something better in case I did decide to add some power down the road. But if I can't stop breaking axles, there's no point in increasing power. Obviously, the cheap parts store axle didn't help, but I figured it would be at least as strong as OE. Apparently not. As an aside, I already have BMR diff bushings, a Eaton Truetrac, and an LPW cover, so the center section won't be a problem. Should I buy another factory axle instead of a parts store one? The axle company kinda steered me away from buying their axles (shocking, a lot of places wouldn't care, they'd just sell you whatever ), just because with how my car is set up, I'd experience too much wear in the joints and I'd have more problems. Not something I'd want to deal with after shelling out $2K.
Well, that sucks. From what I have observed, the aftermarket replacement axles are noticeably weaker than OEM. You have identified the other big issue - ride height. The CV angle is already poor in factory trim, and lowered it just gets worse. As you mentioned the offset bushings help, but only so much.

In my direct experience, the OEM axles are at least as tough as the ring and pinion itself, as I've never broken an axle, but I've had a few ring gear tooth failures. When you go to aftermarket axles it seems like they keep the ring gear safe, but fail with painful regularity.

It also sounds like the clutch is not doing you any favors - that abrupt engagement can be incredibly hard on parts. My RXT can be a bit like that - it has a pretty reasonable slip window, but it tigthens up sharply as it comes to the point of full engagement, and it will bite if you're not careful with it. I feel similar about chatter, I get a little here and there, but nothing troubling, and can definitely be driven around.

My G-Force 9" is supposed to go in this weekend. After fighting the same fight you are now for years, I'm ready to hopefully stop worrying about the rear end and just SEND IT for a while. Trans will probably be next knowing the way it goes for me.

For you, I think you find some factory axles, and just try to enjoy the car. Or, stock up on axles, and figure out how to tame that clutch down to where it doesn't hurt stuff.
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