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HSLdriver · 10-07-2021, 04:07 PM

Small tracks: Not a problem, several ZL1s and ZL1 1LEs at Thompson (note that the car is very fast there, completely stock--including factory street alignment--gave me with a TSMP PB of 1:18.78).

Aero: New England track corners are probably too slow to have any appreciable effect (maybe the downhill at LRP could use the aero?); in fact, I would guess it adds more drag than aero at smaller tracks (i.e., I wouldn't be surprised if a ZL1--on the same tires--lapped about the same as a ZL1 1LE on TSMP-sized tracks).

Traction: Have not run into this issue. Note the high-performance supplement says, with PTM (i.e., traction control) on, "...after entering a curve and at the point where you would normally start to increase acceleration, fully press the accelerator pedal." In addition, I've recently been running all-off and have not had any issues with traction as long as I am progressive with the gas (maybe there is no issue, maybe I am overly conservative, or maybe it's the eDiff, but you can get to WOT pretty quickly, even without PTM on).

Other: if you want to be the fastest ZL1 at Thompson, get the A10 (not only do you get the benefit of faster shifts, but the M6 spends time in the rev limiter at corners 1, 3, and 4); alternatively, if you want to chase cars at TSMP, slow down by switching to the 220tw SC3s (they cost 1.4 seconds around that track, but last longer, are a little better in the wet, and can go down to 40F vs. 50F which can matter at the beginning/end of track season) or similar; 140 mph needs 5th with the M6 (rev limited at about 139 in 4th); given the choice, I'd spend PDR money on a Garmin; ergonomics can be rough (e.g., need to track with windows open but helmet does not fit through window opening?) but one help I found is knee pads (left knee was always bruised after a day at the track due to pressing against plastic on door, a pad helps); aside from what you may read, nothing special needed to jack the car (just a jack and jack stands, both on the pinch welds at the skirt cutouts); prepare for the logistics of a tank of gas lasting about 45 minutes on-track; it is lower than I expected (low profile jack needed or drive up on some scrap wood); it is very stiff (my seatbelt locks itself about once a week and I've hit my head on the roof three times). In general, it seems every bit the no-excuses track car you can drive to the track and back; it's not fussy at all and really needs no mods (OEM pads are great, comes with SKF hubs, etc.) to be shockingly fast, reliable, and predictable--enjoy!

10-07-2021, 04:07 PM	#32
HSLdriver Drives: 2018 ZL1 1LE Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: New England Posts: 14	Small tracks: Not a problem, several ZL1s and ZL1 1LEs at Thompson (note that the car is very fast there, completely stock--including factory street alignment--gave me with a TSMP PB of 1:18.78). Aero: New England track corners are probably too slow to have any appreciable effect (maybe the downhill at LRP could use the aero?); in fact, I would guess it adds more drag than aero at smaller tracks (i.e., I wouldn't be surprised if a ZL1--on the same tires--lapped about the same as a ZL1 1LE on TSMP-sized tracks). Traction: Have not run into this issue. Note the high-performance supplement says, with PTM (i.e., traction control) on, "...after entering a curve and at the point where you would normally start to increase acceleration, fully press the accelerator pedal." In addition, I've recently been running all-off and have not had any issues with traction as long as I am progressive with the gas (maybe there is no issue, maybe I am overly conservative, or maybe it's the eDiff, but you can get to WOT pretty quickly, even without PTM on). Other: if you want to be the fastest ZL1 at Thompson, get the A10 (not only do you get the benefit of faster shifts, but the M6 spends time in the rev limiter at corners 1, 3, and 4); alternatively, if you want to chase cars at TSMP, slow down by switching to the 220tw SC3s (they cost 1.4 seconds around that track, but last longer, are a little better in the wet, and can go down to 40F vs. 50F which can matter at the beginning/end of track season) or similar; 140 mph needs 5th with the M6 (rev limited at about 139 in 4th); given the choice, I'd spend PDR money on a Garmin; ergonomics can be rough (e.g., need to track with windows open but helmet does not fit through window opening?) but one help I found is knee pads (left knee was always bruised after a day at the track due to pressing against plastic on door, a pad helps); aside from what you may read, nothing special needed to jack the car (just a jack and jack stands, both on the pinch welds at the skirt cutouts); prepare for the logistics of a tank of gas lasting about 45 minutes on-track; it is lower than I expected (low profile jack needed or drive up on some scrap wood); it is very stiff (my seatbelt locks itself about once a week and I've hit my head on the roof three times). In general, it seems every bit the no-excuses track car you can drive to the track and back; it's not fussy at all and really needs no mods (OEM pads are great, comes with SKF hubs, etc.) to be shockingly fast, reliable, and predictable--enjoy! Last edited by HSLdriver; 10-13-2021 at 12:06 PM.