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Old 05-10-2021, 10:11 AM   #6
cdb95z28


 
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Drives: 2022 1SS 1LE A10 BCD WCT+PDR
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Johnstown, PA
Posts: 3,745
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmatt777 View Post
Oh ok wow thank you for the feedback so far! I really do appreciate everything you’re saying. The SRF is a recent upgrade I didn’t have it while I was tracking the car. I think I did run into fluid boiling because, as I’ve read, the brake pedal will go straight down to the floor when this happens. And there will be little to no grab from the caliper. This is exactly what happened on that straight away. There was barely a pinch coming from the calipers and the brake pedal was as far down as it could go.

With that said, I have the entire brake kit coming in soon, so this will all be upgraded including pads. As I said, the fluid is already in, so we’re good there. I’m definitely going to add the deflectors so they’re there for next time and I’ll check my owners manual for more info that I might be able to grab. Thank you again! I appreciate the advice and the link too I’ll be looking into that as well.

Cool!

There's a chance that you'll run into bleeding issues with installing the new front brakes. You'll get it bled but the pedal will still be soft. This is a normal occurrence. The consensus is trapped air somewhere, either at the ABS module or around the pistons.

A heavy, repeated application of the ABS seems to release this trapped air for further bleeding. Another method to release the trapped air is to have a dealer cycle the ABS solenoids via their OBD2 scan tool. Either method is cycling the ABS solenoids.

I use the self engagement of the ABS on my Gen5 1LE. I do it when there are no cars around and in a safe location in the dry. You want the ABS to engage heavily and do it a few times. Your pedal may soften up even more than it was before you started this. Just be safe and give yourself plenty of room and be aware that your pedal feel is not exactly confidence inspiring. Once you do this, go back and bleed the brakes again. You should get more air out and the pedal should stiffen up. It is possible you would have to do this a second time.

Even with the dealer method, the brakes will need to be bled again.

It does sound like you had boiling. There will be no friction with boiling and the pedal will be soft. With pad fade, the pedal will be stiff and the friction level will be greatly reduced. If you're lucky the pads will fade first, giving you a sign that there is way too much heat or that the pad's heat threshold has been exceeded.

But if you're running race pads with a high heat tolerance, boiling fluid can happen before the pads fade. This is why proper fluid choice and maintenance is critical along with adequate cooling.
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