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Old 04-24-2021, 12:43 PM   #9
Rallye Green Z
 
Drives: 2016 2SS Mosaic Black 6M, 1969 Z28
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 24
I'll give you my two cents from my current experience. The install isn't too bad, took me and my son around 10 -12hrs, working at a slow and methodical pace. The toughest part was getting the crank bolt out and re-torqued. I ended up using a propane torch to heat the bolt head and release the factory "seal" that is on the bolt head along with a new short high torque impact wrench to get it out, after breaking one socket.

I would recommend that you get a catch can of your choice to relieve any crankcase pressure. I got a Might Mouse, seems to work well. No advocating only letting you know what I have.

As for the tune, I think the Procharger tune is safe as I've used it for about a year now including a day at a HPDE. However, I also am of the opinion that the Procharger tune is not real good. I installed a wideband at the same time as the Procharger, the tune is very rich at max RPM / Boost, like in the high 10's AFR. BTW I have a P1X otherwise a totally stock 2016 SS. If you can't do your own tuning I would recommend that you have a reputable tuner get you dialed in properly. I've recently started doing my own tuning as I wanted to learn. The boost completely throws the VVE table off as Procharger doesn't have you change the MAP sensor, which is not setup for a boosted application.

As for not having a wideband, the only real way to know actual AFR is to have wideband. I wanted to know, the engine cost way too much not to know. Again just my opinion.

As I said, I've driven mine for over a year, no issues other than my exhaust tips being blackened after a single drive. The power gain is awesome. It is overly rich which keeps the cylinder temp down and keeps the piston rings happy, but is no where near optimized.

There is a guy on here that has Jannetty Racing, he knows way more than I do, maybe he will chime in, or you could reach out.

Hope this helps,
Ray
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