Quote:
Originally Posted by SSDan
If I see your connections correctly I agree with grandpa ss - that looks like both ends are connected to the body. The goal is to get the best ground possible between the engine (where the negative connection on the starter is made) to the car's body (where the negative connection for the battery is made.) See my photo of the battery connections and you can see there is a factory cable directly from the battery's negative post to the body. I added a second cable just to make sure that the negative flow between the starter and the battery was as good as possible.
The goal of all of this to make sure the negative electron flow between the starter and the battery is as good as you can make it. The negative electron flow goes from the starter into the engine block then crosses over to the the body using the engine to body ground cable(s) and then on through the body back to the battery ground cable(s) and finally flows up to the negative battery post.
I agree here as well. I certainly can't say the way you have the cable connected will not help. It will not hurt anything. I agree with grandpa ss's thoughts on that.
Can you keep that lower connection point where it is and then reach an engine ground location with the other end? That way you have added a body to engine connection point using the shorter cable you have.
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In regard to grounding the other end to the block, no. Being connected to the same ground as the starter is about as close to the block as I can get or at least see. I measured the ground wire I bought and it's like 19 and a half inches long. If have to pull on it to completely get around the bolt you shown before. It makes sense now with you all talking about grounding to the engine. But its hard to explain the ease with the frame to frame. Just to be safe I'll redirect it to the block. Reason I did frame to frame is because I didn't have any cutters to make the U shape u discussed with the wire.