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Originally Posted by Msquared
So...I did install the Audiofrog GS25 in the dash and their GS690 woofers in the doors of my 1LE. No other changes so far, and it's a huge improvement. I mean massive. It has more extended highs and lows with much more detail but also no harshness. Vocals are leagues better, bass is much better in both extension and quality, ambiance is much improved too. I went with these speakers mainly because of their high sensitivity combined with good reputation for sound quality. The G25 have tabs that make these drop-in replacements, which is nice. I don't really use the rear speakers at all: I just fade them out. My last phase of the plan is to install a Kicker KEY180.4 amp and use it in biamp mode to actively cross over the door and dash units. It has an 35-band auto-EQ that should improve staging and frequency response, too.
AFAIK, there is not yet any interface for our non-amplified systems (e.g. NAV-TV withich is available for Bose-equipped 2019+ Camaros). So I don't think there's any way to attenuate amplified chimes and warnings, even with DSP. I think the only option right now is to use speaker level inputs and carefully consider how much sensitivity to dial into an amp.
ETA: speaking of hating to cut factory wires, I am using a "breakout harness" that Gen5DIY made for me to go between the factory harness and the tuner module by the glove box. It will allow me to put the amp in the circuit for the front speakers without cutting any factory wires. I will still have to run a separate set of leads between the dash speakers and the amp to avoid cutting those, but that will mean zero cuts in factory wires.
Also, I didn't know about LLJ Customs dash speaker adapters when I did mine, so I made my own using the stock speaker's connectors and hi-pass capacitors. You should plan to use some kind of high-pass filter for the dash speakers. If I knew about them, I would have bought the LLJ adapters and added a 200uF cap in the positive leads (corresponds to the recommended crossover point for the GS25 speakers).
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Thank you for your post and all your research in this area. As I was reading up on audio options on the 1LE I stumbled across many of your posts and you were one of the reasons I considered the Audio Frog midrange driver. I honestly may still go that route but my buddy is an avid car audio enthusiast and has bought and tested many of the midrange speakers out there and he told me to try the Sundown's first. So we will see. I actually owned the Morel 2.5 midrange speakers in my last car and was very impressed with them and it was night and day vs the stock Ford midrange and another midrange I bought at Parts Express. So Sundown being better than that midrange (at least it tests better) will make me happy for the price.
Yes I am adding a cap to the midrange, even though I am not adding an amp it seems like cheap protection. Thanks for the tip
I was going to do a single shallow loaded/powered 10" (sealed) enclosure sub, but changed it up and now am doing a 12" shallow Rockford Fosgate (sealed) enclosure with a separate mono amp powering it. It should fit quite nicely in the trunk with the enclosure standing up and firing directly into the back seats. I am a huge subwoofer person for home theater, but in my car I just want something simple that can add some bass that does not overpower the speakers.
Door speakers.. You have me really thinking Audiofrog there. It is so hard to find 6.5" or 6.9" door speakers that are not coaxial (I don't think having tweeters firing so low in this car in the doors make sense to me) but that midrange bass is so important. I was just worried about not using an amp to power them, but it sounds like even off the stock amp/tuner they sound good and to your point an amp down the road will likely be possible.
I am just not dealing with the door chime business right now. If the sub and improved tweeter/mids get me 80% of the way there, I may just stop. For the sub, amp, LOC, and midrange speaker I am right at $300 before tax. I already have a fuse box, speaker and amp wire, and can soldier will use heat shrink on everything.
If I am still not happy I will go Audio Frog or Hybrid Audio (I had their gear in a BRZ and really liked it) for the doors and then go down the rabbit hole of amplifer and DSP. I really do love DSP, especially since with many you can control them from your iPhone now. But in this same breadth I am looking at adding a Borla Type S and probably an Xpipe so yeah. Spending tons of money on speakers is probably self defeating