Quote:
Originally Posted by CoolbreezeNJ
I'm thinking your mechanic is a hack. Completely charge battery. Crank engine and see if it doesn't go below 9.6 volts and that should be that. Check alt while running and see if is is putting out 13+ volts.
Go to connections for HP fuel pump and remove and then re-plug them in. Probably not possible for LP pump .
Check connections on alternator and remove and replace them.
Start car ,go thru all the accessories and turn them on one by one and see if vehicle is maintaining a charging voltage. While doing this bring rpm up maybe to 2000 rpm and see if it is still holding voltage. I believe that these cars have a "smart regulator" from what I might have read where it is looking for the BCM to measure voltage and then re-signal the regulator in the alternator. If you have a 2nd voltmeter and can get to the fuel pump connection monitor that voltage while your doing the rest of the stuff.
I'm almost 60 yrs old. I put myself thru college working on cars and have fixed them and nearly everything in my house since. What I have learned is to be patient and collect data as I would say that "throwing parts at stuff" has only worked 30% of the time.
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In general, there are very few "mechanics" left in this world. Everyone is a "technician" now because of all of the electronics in cars today. While your approach would work great on cars that are at least 20 years old, there a lot of tech in ones like the Gen6 Camaro that you need a lot of special equipment to trace, diagnose, and test.
One example is that the charging system in the car doesn't just need to output 13+ volts... It has to also output a minimum amperage AND needs to be verified to switch into a "maintenance mode" when the battery reaches full charge because AGM batteries are extremely sensitive to overcharging.