Quote:
Originally Posted by cdrptrks
Sorry I got it backwards; you're correct. I would still be afraid of lug nuts coming lose over time from vibrations though if using anti-seize. Tire rack and permatex recommend no anti-sieze.
Step 7: "Do not apply anti-seize compound to the lug hardware or studs."
https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tiretec....jsp?techid=39
"Permatex® does not recommend the use of any anti-seize product on wheel studs. Many people have used anti-seize for this applications, however, there is the potential for over-torqueing and therefore, higher clamp loads and potentially dangerous bolt stretch."
https://www.permatex.com/faqwd/perma...uts/?locale=en
"The tech folks at Tire Rack state: "Torque specifications are for dry threads only. The fastener threads should be free of oil, dirt, grit, corrosion, etc. It is important NOT to lubricate hardware threads or seats. The friction at which torque is measured against should come from the hardware seats. Lubricating hardware threads and seats alters the friction generated which will result in inaccurate torque readings and/or over-torqueing of the hardware.""
https://webcache.googleusercontent.c...ts/510559822/+ |
Now here's a topic spanning many decades and thousands of posts. I choose to use anti-seize on my threads & mating surfaces & reduce torque by 20%, then retorque after a few hundred miles at 15% reduced torque. I've had some really bad experiences with under-torqued wheels due to contaminants on the mating surfaces & threads; the anti-seize helps prevent corrosion on the threads & under-torquing wheels from contaminants.
My OE wheels never torqued properly at 140 pounds feet & I got the above clicking until I started lubricating the mating surface on the lug nut. It also took like 200 foot pounds of torque to break the lug nuts loose - could be related to the ceramic coating I applied to the wheels. Plus, in my previous Fiesta ST, I had some problems with the lugs galling (and rusting simultaneously), so I started making sure to put anti-seize on them; the 80% torque rule worked really well on that car too.
This method doesn't work for everyone, especially if you bring your car to shops where they'll take wheels & tires off or if you're not diligent in checking your torques. It's a risk I decide to take because I take my wheels off pretty often & regularly check torques.
Edit: I want to make clear for anybody reading this that you really need a very small amount of anti-seize. Don't glob it on - a small dab on the threads will do just fine.