Quote:
Originally Posted by TrackClub
Val, do NOT go back to that guy. Period. Full stop.
Maybe he thought your SS was a new C8 since he set it up for a mid engine car? Basically the alignment is reversed F vs R. Way too much in the rear hence you see improper wear there. As much as some of his comments are valid in theory for a serious RACE team, nobody here adjusts alignment several times a season! I had mine done once and run the car for 3 yrs and 60 track days with perfect balance and great tire wear.
Moreover, no matter how great a gal you may be, getting an alignment for free is highly unusual and maybe his strategy to talk you into having it changed 5 or 10 times meaning you will then OVER PAY 5 or 10 times for a service that should be done well and ONCE.
Find another shop asap, or even take it to a GM dealer and take the shot of the GM track specs offered above and bring them with ya.
The key on the Camaro is to max the F camber using stock bolts and then dial R with about 1 degree difference. As an example i have 2.6F and 1.6R.
For the toe, i would suggest 0 in the F and total toe in of 0.10 in the R. Note: running 0 in the R usually makes the car feel rather loose (definitely NOT for anyone without tons of experience, if ever).
Here is an instruction how to max the F camber on stock bolts posted by a forum member a while back. Take it with you to whatever shop you happend to take your car to so they will know how to accomplish it. Note this also explains why an "adjustment bolt" is NOT needed if proper procedure is followed. Cheers!
Loosen the 2 strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts
-->Here's the important part that average shops can't seem to wrap their head around:
*Hammer the bolt a little bit to loosen it from the knuckle. Splines on the bolt OD grip the knuckle otherwise making the alignment nearly impossible. If you don't get the 2 strut bolts loose, the alignment isn't going to happen without...guess what...that stupid "adjustment bolt".
*adjust to taste - snug up strut bolts. You can choose to have the strut bolts "kinda snug" to hold the relationship until it's adjusted satisfactorily. The "adjustment bolt" can kind of help here, but it only limits movement in one direction, meaning the alignment can still drift the other way until the 2 strut bolts are snugged up.
*check alignment, torque strut bolts, verify alignment.
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I appreciate your input and have saved your post in my records.
FYI I picked up some camber plates.