I wanted to update this thread with what I found to fix this issue.
Honestly I cannot pin point if it was air in the master cylinder or the ABS system as I bled them both in the same day without testing in between bleeding one then the other.
For the master cylinder, I did not remove it from the car. There is a strut brace near the master cylinder and to be honest I thought it would come right out so the master cylinder could easily be removed.
(see this thread for the brace I'm referring to
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=447974)
Just as mentioned in that thread the brace does not come out by simply unbolting the 3 fastener locations that hold it in place. There is a threaded stud on the fire wall that makes this difficult. So for this reason I decided to leave the master on the car.
I bled all calipers first, my intention was to run as much fluid through the master cylinder as possible in hopes of removing trapped air if that was indeed where it was at. After bleeding all the calipers I had a Snap-On scan tool that I rented from a local mechanic that allowed me to do an automated ABS bleed cycle. I followed the instructions in the scan tool and for sake of overkill I did the automated ABS bleed cycle twice, I figured I already had the scan tool in my possession and wanted to be 100% sure I had no air in the ABS. After the second time of bleeding the ABS I went back and bled each caliper again, overkill most likely but again I wanted to be 100% sure.
So after all the brake bleeding mentioned above my pedal feel came back to where it was when the car was new. I did still have an issue, which was the brake performance was not as good as new. I blame this on myself, last winter right before I put the car away for months I gave it a was. I did not drive the car after the was and simply pulled it in side for storage. Well come to find out setting all winter I had an issue with the front brake pads sticking to the rotors from rust. This was much worse than the normal stick I would get from not driving the car for a week that I had experienced in the past. There was significant rust on the rotor which seemed to compromise the brake pad's friction properties and I could not get them to burnish properly after this. I replaced the brake pads with new and was able to get them to burnish easily. After this I had the brakes back to 100%, pedal feel was great as is the performance.
I think I had a combination of issues and my fix may not be the same as someone else.