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Whoa tilt .......
You can turn them on the car but it would be better, if you're inclined, to go to a machine shop. Most places won't have the extended shaft to turn them on an AMMCO brake lathe.
As everybody said, it doesn't sound like you really need them turned. Get a minimum of 60 grit, preferably the coarser the better. Wrap a sheet around a hand size 2X4 or a block sander and clean the rotor surface of the old pad material. Do a cross hatch as best as possible. Use a mild grit, like 220 and clean the inner and outer hat faces. Clean the hub with a wire brush.
When done wash the rotors with dish soap and dry. Now, I prefer to Gunk Squeal Medic, it's a spray, like aluminum paint, but it's not. Spray the rotor surface, I actually spray the whole rotor assy. I spray the rotor face heavy, and then let it dry for about 5-10 minutes and then lightly wipe off the excess, leaving the surface silver looking. After you've cleaned the hub you can spray the Gunk on the hub to resist rust, works well for that.
For the backside of the pad, the factory uses none, but they have a nice backing. On the Z26 pads I use a Mercedes compound. It's like an electrical grease and a moly mixed together.also clean the calipers where the end of the pads ride and then grease them and the ends of the pads.
When you break the pads in be gentle until the gunk has worn in/off and then have at it. The first few times you'll be cussing because it won't stop for diddly and you'll think I lied. It will also cause the pads to clunk, but wear in the Gunk and the stopping power will come back and then do your stops.
As an aside, the Z26 pads don't have the stopping power of the factory pads.
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